Ama sets an opening date at the Transamerica complex, sushi takeout hit Aji Kiji expands downtown, and Sunset Squares calls it quits, all in This Week in Food.

Ama, the much-awaited new Italian-Japanese from chef Brad Kilgore, is opening in just a few weeks at the Transamerica Pyramid — not in the building but across the Redwood Park in the adjacent 545 Sansome, known as Three Transamerica. The grand opening is set for September 24, and the reservation books are now open. Kilgore teases dishes to the Chronicle this week like squid-ink arancini filled with tamari, soy sauce and mushroom; a citrus-miso king salmon, served over lobster-tomato bisque; and his signature soft-boiled egg hiding under a brûléed Gruyere foam and sea scallop, topped with caviar (photo above). There will also be the more lounge-y Ama Social Club hidden down the hall from the restaurant, which will be a vibe and will keep later hours. The full Ama menu will be available there until the restaurant closes, but there will be a separate menu too including shareable dishes like a giant wagyu meatball with caramelized parmesan fondue ($38), a koji-aged prime rib ($80), and a whole, dry-aged veal chop parmigiano ($90).

Popular Fillmore sushi takeout spot Aji Kiji, which debuted last year from the Bansang team, is expanding to the Financial District. As Eater reports, a second Aji Kiji will debut at 359 Kearny Street sometime in October, and at the new location there will be two lines: one for pre-orders, and one for walk-ins seeking lunchtime bento boxes. Update: The Standard reports via owner Jinwoong Lim that Aji Kiji will actually close its Fillmore spot and relcoate to Kearny Street, which seems strange given its popularity, and Eater seemed to think it was a second location.

As SFist reported Thursday, Parachute Bakery has made its splashy debut at the Ferry Building, in the former Out the Door space — with a sliding door separating it from Arqueta, the restaurant from the Sorrel team that is still set to open within weeks. Pastry chef Nasir Armar is offering up some beautiful, delicious viennoiserie and French-inspired pastry, with a number of twists of his own creation, and for a few weeks customers should probably get there when they open at 8 am and expect lines.

Also in the news, 113-year-old Chinatown restaurant Sam Wo is coming back to life, yet again, under new ownership, but with the help of former chef Mister David Ho, who's come out of retirement to pass along his recipes.

And there is not a ton of detail, but RT Bistro, the bistro offshoot of Rich Table next door (in the same building) on the Oak Street side, is headed for an opening next month or in early November. Chef-owners Sarah and Evan Rich are still working on the menu, but a wood grill will be front and center, and the Rich Table burger will be on there as well.

Sunset Squares has sadly ceased operations and closed up shop at 553 Divisadero. No announcement was made, but shop is cleared out, the business's Instagram has gone quiet, and the order button on the website is no longer functional. The deep-dish, sourdough pizza operation from chef Dennis Lee and his brothers — who previously ran Namu, Namu Gaji, and Namu Stonepot — grew out of a pandemic experiment and an anonymous Instagram business, and set up shop on Ninth Street in SoMa as SSP Beer Hall in June 2021, with a food that included Filipino pop-up Uncle Tito, and the former Namu Stonepot on Divis became a new slice shop location later that year. They advertised two pizza styles, "Detroit-ish and New York-ish," and the topping combos were always inspired and delicious, including the Bull-Dog, which was like a cheffed up okonomiyaki pancake. They will be missed.

Popular, two-year-old Oakland pie shop Edith's Pie is likely headed for closure. Owners Mike Raskin and Jeffrey Wright say that they are facing "insurmountable debts after a year of losses," and they're hoping to stay open for the Thanksgiving week pie rush, but they're not sure they can. "We created a lot of fans along the way, but lately - not enough customers," they owners say in a newsletter, per the Chronicle.

And up in Corte Madera, Amy's Drive-Thru, the fast-food offshoot of vegetarian frozen-food company Amy's Kitchen, is closing their Marin location, as the Marin Independent Journal reports. They still have their original location in Rohnert Park,  and one in Harvey Milk Terminal 1 at SFO, and the Corte Madera location is being taken over by a Super Duper.

Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan published a review this week of Yeobo, Darling, the two-month-old Menlo Park Korean-Taiwanese restaurant from former Maum chefs Meichih and Michael Kim. She remarks on the "glamorous" interior, with floor-to-ceiling leather drapes cordoning off the host stand, as well as the delicious food. Dish highlights include a lasagna with lu rou, Taiwanese soy-braised pork, in place of Bolognese; and a Korean-style crispy-skinned tilefish dish. And, Fegan notes, reservations are already a bit tough to get, with the Peninsula foodinista crowd already well aware of how good this place is.

And Associate Critic Cesar Hernandez does his reviews duties at Jules, the already popular Lower Haight pizza spot that grew out of chef Max Blachman-Gentile's pop-up. The headline declares "San Francisco's next best pizza spot has arrived," so clearly he agrees with us and others who have already raved about Jules. And, he writes, "The majesty of the pizza has much to do with its hybrid dough, whose identity feels like it went on a soul-searching road trip across America." And he gives praise beyond the pizza to the sleeper-hit starter, the roasted cabbage with Calabrian chile-Sichuan peppercorn compound butter.

Photo of Brad Kilgore's egg dish via MaryGold's/Facebook