A new bistro is headed to the Lower Haight called Passages, former Magnolia guy Dave McLean is opening a new brewpub for his new beer brand in San Rafael, and Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan returns from maternity leave to review Esme, all in This Week in Food.

I got a chance to taste one of the new beers from former Magnolia Brewing guy Dave McLean, who has launched a new beer brand called Hidden Splendor. The delicious, English-style extra pale ale harkened back to the easy-drinking, mildly hopped English ales that were once the bread and butter of Magnolia — which is now under new local ownership after passing through a buyout by New Belgium Brewing Company. Such beers will be the focus of a new brewpub called Excelsior in San Rafael, which McLean hopes to open sometime this fall. The space at 1132 4th Street is the former State Room Brewery, which closed in January, and renovations have been ongoing. We'll update you as soon as we have more info.

A new wine bar and bistro is coming to the Lower Haight called Passages, though details are scant for now. Tablehopper reports on the project from chef Alex Lauritzen, who retired his vegan pop-up The Mushroom last year, and it sounds like this project could be plant-based as well, though that is unclear. Lauritzen hasn't confirmed an address, only that he's found a space he likes, and his Passages pop-ups offer some clues as well.

Additionally, Tablehopper brings an update on Frede, the new, still-in-the-works concept from former State Bird Provisions chef de cuisine Gaby Maeda (part of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs class of 2021) and Blake Cole, who were the co-owners of Friends & Family in Oakland. Maeda and Cole are on the hunt for a space in San Francisco, likely downtown or in the Mission, that is BART-accessible, and they're doing pop-ups as the continue R&D for the restaurant, like one that is coming up at Ordinaire in Oakland on August 30. Follow Frede on Instagram for further updates, and read about a dessert Maeda has been working on here.

We had news this week that chef Pim Techamuanvivit, who has not one but two Michelin-starred Thai restaurants in town, Kin Khao and Nari, is planning a new restaurant on Upper Fillmore that is likely to be focused on the Thai curry noodle soup known as khao soi, with the working title Khao Soi Ya. That is subject to change, and we likely won't know more about the menu or opening timeframe for many months. But the new venture is part of the larger Upper Fillmore Revitalization Project, being spearheaded by billionaire Neil Mehta, which will be anchored by a revamped Clay Theater when it is all complete in the coming years.

Also on Fillmore, Jevikal, a San Jose-based Korean food truck, is reportedly taking over the former Pride of the Mediterranean space at the corner of Fillmore and Sutter. The New Fillmore had the news of the coming opening, though no opening date, and the restaurant will reportedly feature Korean comfort food including fried chicken and kimbap.

The big opening this weekend is The Mess Hall in the Presidio, which I just wrote about here. The 6,000-square-foot food hall, with its own bar and all-day market, is the final piece to be completed of the Presidio Tunnel Tops Park, and it will be open daily, starting Saturday, from 7 am to 8 pm during the week, and until 10 pm Friday to Sunday, with three restaurant menus to choose from starting at 11 am including a Korean street-food concept, a seafood menu, and a casual menu featuring burgers, salads, and sandwiches.

The Chronicle had word that Oakland's Home of Chicken & Waffles is closing after over 20 years in business, and after serving as a celebrity and political candidate go-to spot, including presidential candidates Hillary Clinton and Kamala Harris, in previous years. The restuarant moved from its longtime waterfront location in 2024 to 247 Fourth Street, near Jack London Square.

And, finally, Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan is back from maternity leave and has filed a review of Esme, the already very popular new French-ish bistro on Divisadero from Pearl 6101 partner Susan Dunn. Fegan notes that some of the mad demand for tables at the place is likely due to the fact that prices are suprisingly low, with starters mostly under $15, and a steak frites that's just $36, which seems unheard of in 2026 San Francisco. She raves about the roast chicken (which I can attest is a winner), the grilled halloumi with stone fruit, and the reasonably priced wine list with delightful selections that are priced at well below market rate, these days for an SF glass of wine. Hooray for value, and for a quaint neighborhood spot that punches above its weight for its inventiveness and quality.

Top image: Photo of a dessert in development from Gaby Maeda of Frede, via Substack