Maritime Boat Club comes to Union Square, Crustacean sets an opening date for its new downtown location, and Buoy Bar debuts next week in Hayes Valley, all in This Week in Food.
The biggest food-world news this week was the release of the 2025 Michelin Guide for California, which for the first time blessed two Los Angeles restaurants with three stars: Providence, and Somni. The guide also gave two stars to the barely one-year-old Enclos in Sonoma, setting it up to potentially be the Bay Area's next three-star restaurant in the coming years. (When Healdsburg's SingleThread debuted in the guide at the two-star level, it was quickly elevated to three the following year.) San Francisco's Kiln, in Hayes Valley, was elevated to two stars after debuting in the guide at one star. And Oakland's Sun Moon Studio, already a tough reservation to get with just 12 seats, landed its first star. Otherwise, all the Bay Area's stars remained as is.
Maritime Boat Club has just joined Bar Maritime at the Palihotel in Union Square (417 Stockton Street). The casual, full-service restaurant debuts in the space formerly occupied by the tavern portion of the Burritt Room + Tavern, with a market-driven, seafood-focused menu from former Quince, Sorrel, and Atelier Crenn chef Felix Santos. In addition to raw-bar and other seafood starters, larger plates include coonstripe shrimp with polenta and black cod with fava bean salsa verde. There's also a large-format Painted Hills côte de bœuf served with purple carrots. The team is boasting a wine list with "very low markups" on bottles, and most are priced below $100, focusing predominantly on low-intervention wines. Cocktails will continue to come from the Bar Maritime team, led by Larry Piaskowy.
We have a brief update on Ama, the new Japanese-Italian restaurant from chef Brad Kilgore next door to the Transamerica tower. While there was some earlier talk of a sooner opening, we're now told that the team is aiming for a September debut.
The new Crustacean in the Financial District now has an opening date, and it's July 15. When we first heard the details on the new 195 Pine Street location in March, the aim was for a spring opening, but things were obviously delayed. 82-year-old Master Chef Helene An's menu favorites like the crab with garlic noodles, the tiger prawns, and the tamarind crab, will all be featured on the new menu, along with new dishes like pan-seared wagyu dumplings with bone marrow and lemongrass; and banh khôt, savory Vietnamese-style pancakes, which can be served with king crab, wagyu, or mushrooms. As the Chronicle reports, the new rose gold bar will serve house cocktails like the Saigon 75 — a twist on the French 75 using Vietnamese Song Cai gin. And the restaurant's signature dishes will continue to be prepared in a "secret" kitchen only accessible by An family members, so that the secret recipes are preserved. After the new restaurant opens, the 34-year-old Polk Street location plans to close.
The Buoy, the bakery-cafe that's in the former Le Fantastique space at 22 Franklin Street, is expanding with Buoy Bar, a contemporary Korean concept which debuts July 1. Buoy Bar replaces the high-end tasting-menu restaurant Jang, which opened in the space last summer and has apparently closed. The menu features raw bar items like kampachi crudo with stone fruit and chogochujang, and small plates like spicy sea snail somen, and crispy corn jeon. Larger dishes includ a grilled shortrb with chestnut purée, maitake mushrooms, charred leeks, and beef jus ssam; and a dish of squid ink cream risotto and seared squid. Find reservations here.
And Dragon Well, the Marina District Chinese restaurant, has just announced a new Mahjong Lair night on Tuesdays, starting July 15, featuring mahjong play and instruction, and drink service during gameplay — as well as free snacks. They will also be launching a group table, the East Wind Table, Wednesday to Sunday dedicated to mahjong, with a prix fixe meal.
Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan has a review of Side A, the new "maximalist," Midwestern-inspired restaurant from former Aphotic chef Parker Brown. Chung Fegan is most definitely a fan of the Italian beef sandwich-inspired Parisian gnocchi, with braised shortrib, fresh goat cheese, and house-pickled giardiniera. And she likes the schnitzel-esque chicken cutlet with honey mustard sauce, which she calls, "McNuggets’ final form." But, she adds, while "Brown’s maximalist swings uniformly delight... they don’t all hit their mark." And she's not a huge fan of the bone-marrow- and goat-cheese-topped cheeseburger.
Top image: A dish of crab with honey mustard sauce at Maritime Boat Club. Photo by Robert Gomez