This week at SFist, we learned that Oakland's Genova Delicatessen would indeed close after a 90-year run, reported that Foreign Cinema's bar next door Laszlo would reopen with a makeover on May 12, and wrote that Sam Wo would reprise the good old days with food until 3 a.m. in Chinatown. There was also word on the adult children's food front that Mac Daddy, a mac and cheese joint, would replace Dat Spot in the former Chez Maman space on Potrero Hill. And from up on high, there was Chron food critic Michael Bauer's annual pruning and preening of his top 100 Bay Area restaurants. Elsewhere in the food world:
In the FiDi, Homage opens on May 2nd according to Eater, who have a copy of the opening menu. We learned of the place last November, which comes from David Kurtz, formerly of Maven. Every two weeks the menu will shift its focus to ingredients from a different farm, with Knoll Farms of Santa Ana up first.
Eater scored the opening menu at the Yerba Buena Lemonade, the first SF opening from the fast casual chain that arrives by way of LA. You'll recall that Lemonade was snatching up a number of former La Boulange storefronts, and has a total of six Bay Area locations in the works. The LA businesses are likely getting a Red Lobster-style Beyoncé boost thanks to her album Lemonade but who knows.
Four Barrel will open on the 9th Avenue corridor of the Inner Sunset in the former Standard Roofing Co.space according to Hoodline. The architect for the spot at 1226 9th Ave is the same one who did the MIll, which serves Four Barrel and is, for all intents and purposes, Four Barrel with toast.
Anthony Bourdain is returning to town to hype his book, The Hunger, Inside Scoop says. He'll be at the War Memorial Opera House in November. If anyone wants to take bets on where he'll eat, Swan Oyster depot is a safe one.
Tosca got a new cocktail menu, which Eater got a hold of, but don't fret: The House cappuccino will be there forever. Chad Arnholt and Claire Sprouse of Tin Roof Drink Community are behind the new concoctions.
Off The Grid Presidio twilight picnics return May 12, Inside Scoop reports. The event is a combination of Off The Grid's Presidio Picnic — which occurs in the same spot, just during the day, on the main parade ground — and the evening Fort Mason parking lot offerings. Expect plenty of new vendors.
San Pellegrino has named Michelin-starred Dominique Crenn (Atelier Crenn, Petit Crenn) the World’s Best Female Chef, a category some begrudge, Inside Scoop also reports. She was honored at the Smyth Hotel in New York City this week, and Grub Street got her on the phone to discuss the news.
The Ferry Building's Cowgirl Creamery outpost and its sister spot Sidekick Café & Milkbar are closing for a remodel according to Hoodline. That starts on May 2nd with Cowgirl closed until June and Sidekick closed for just a few days.
ATwater Tavern will open in the former Jelly nightclub space on May 3: Inside Scoop reports that the project comes from John Caine of another spot near the ballpark, Hi Dive, and there's a 120-seat lower patio with views to behold.
Evil Eye will open at 25th and Mission according to the word on the street from Capp Street Crap and Hoodline. That's in the former home of Coco Frio, which closed in January after a short four months. Evil Eye will feature cocktails and small plates — "We’re going for a neighborhood, non-pretentious, well-designed, comfortable sort of space,” the husband its husband-and-wife ownership team tells Hoodline.
Cookiebar Creamery opens in Old Oakland today with ice cream sandwiches, per Inside Scoop, and one day of free ice cream, which was today. It does sound a lot like CREAM, you are correct. Cookiebar already has one location in Alameda.
The 2016 James Beard Foundation Awards for Book, Broadcast & Journalism were released, and among them, as Inside Scoop reports, were some Bay Area winners, including local writer John Birdsall who won in the Food and Culture category.
1455 Market Street, which will play host to Uber and Square, will house in its ground floor retail space a number of spots — four restaurants to be exact. One will be a spinoff from Mateo’s Taqueria of the Mission according to Hoodline. Mateo's launched last fall and I would compare it to the Little Chihuahua.
Elswhere in Old Oakland, Delage from Chikara Ono of (AS B-Dama) and Masa Sasaki (Maruya, Omakase) has opened according to Eater. Chikara describes the spot as "Michelin-quality sushi with small plates influenced by French techniques." Food will eventually be available a la carte, but for now, it's omakase only.
In the Castro, Le Marais, a chain with locations in the Marina and at Ghirardelli Square, is readying to move into what was, until last week, Samovar Tea Lounge. Hoodline reports. Expect pastry, Stumptown coffee, and a variety of egg dishes in the mornings. In the evenings, beer and wine will be available, as will traditional french meals.
Pliny the Younger, the annual release from Russian River Brewing Company that's become a phenomenon, has been a big financial boon to Sonoma county according to data in the Business Times. 16,000 people visited the brewpub for the February release this year, 61% of them for the Younger' release, many visiting from other states. The total economic impact, the Business Times says, was almost $5 million.
Finally, some feuding North Beach bars have made nice, or sort of. Gino & Carlo’s had filed a temporary restraining order against Pete Mrabe of neighboring Pete's on Green, Inside Scoop says, for allegedly punching a Gino's owner, Frank S. Rossi, but they won't move forward with charges.
This Week In Reviews
Pete Kane of the Weekly headed to Westlake Joe’s, which has just undergone a renovation. "Every detail that felt contemporary pulled right back to 1960, and vice versa," he writes of what is still a "time-warp." Do it right: "if you really want to eat like you were at a state dinner Kennedy might have hosted for Khrushchev, go with the prime rib," Kane says.
Kane also dined at Poor Red’s in Placerville — "a jewel of roadside Americana" — with stagecoach roots and a recent resurrection story. The wood-fired barbecue meats sound like they top the drinks, including the Golden Cadillac, for which the bar was originally known.
Racking up one more review, Kane ate at Pak Nam in the TL. "If you’re the kind of person who — at least occasionally — fetishizes the nasal-passage-clearing purification ritual that is a good dose of chili, do stop into 655 Larkin, in the heart of Little Saigon," he says, noting that the price is right to boot.
Over at the Chronicle, Anna Roth headed to what she is calling the “Middle” Sunset to scope the scene. It's an homage to the 'hood she calls home, and includes shout outs to spots like Shangri-La, the Taco Shop at Underdogs, Marnee Thai, and more, all of which dot the Irving Street Strip.
Last, in addition to his Top 100 list, the Chronicle's Michael Bauer reviewed Molina in Mill Valley, which he says has lost its luster after just a year. The Moana Restaurant Group took over after opening chef Todd Shoberg, who earned three-and-a-half stars from Bauer, left, and his number two, Kyle Swain, took over. Writes Bauer of the place, known for wood-fired everything,"The kitchen ballet has now turned into a fire drill. It was clear on my revisit that the staff did not have control of the fire; they dropped pans and often couldn’t find the sweet spot in the blazing flames." Two stars.