Burdell chef Geoff Davis is expanding to Rockridge and taking over the soon-to-close Wood Tavern, Jollibee draws a line near Powell BART, and Tartine's Chad Robertson is doing big things in Brooklyn, all in This Week In Food.
Critically lauded Burdell chef Geoff Davis is opening a second restaurant in Oakland, a "neighborhood bar and grill" called Uncle's that will be taking over the Wood Tavern space in Rockridge after that beloved restaurant closes at the end of the year. Perhaps the early closure announcement last week for Wood Tavern came because they knew Food & Wine would be publishing a story about Uncle's, in which Davis promises only that Uncle's will serve Martinis and steak, but it won't be a steakhouse. "We’re trying to create a restaurant that feels like it’s always been there," Davis says, and he references a 1970s vibe which is very much the vibe at Burdell, so there will likely be some family resemblance. Davis adds that he wants the place to feel home-y, and he jokes, "It’s like if Applebee’s didn’t go corporate." A pop-up Davis did at Burdell in February, dubbed "The Tavern," appears to have provided a preview of his menu in development.
The long-awaited, Powell Street-adjacent Jollibee opened Friday morning at long last, and there was reportedly a line outside of ardent fans that began Thursday night, per Mission Local. So, Jollibee's fried chicken and spaghetti is good and all, but SF had a small Jollibee location at Howard and Fourth streets in the last decade, and I don't recall any major excitement about it or certainly any lines outside. So, perhaps all the news stories about all the permitting delays just drummed up enough excitement for this one?
Mission Local had the news this week that Reem's California at Mission and 25th Street will be closing for two months starting August 2 due to necessary repairs that have to take place to the building following a June 10 hit-and-run in which a car slammed into the front of the restaurant. Repairs are currently estimated at around $200,000.
In some big news for the FiDi food scene, Tartine Bakery has inked a lease for a space formerly occupied by a CVS at California and Sansome streets, with plans to open an all-day bakery-restaurant there next year. This will be Tartine's fourth location in the city and fifth location in the Bay Area — with now seven locations in Los Angeles as well.
Grub Street also had the related news earlier this week that Tartine co-founder and mast bread baker Chad Robertson is opening his first outpost in New York, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It's called Altbau — a German architectural term for turn-of-the-20th-century-era "old buildings," like the one on Brooklyn's North 8th Street where the bakery is opening — and it plans to serve an array of baked goods, pastries, sandwiches, and "the occasional pizza," and things they're talking about include grilled cheese on sprouted rye, and "a BEC [bacon, egg & cheese] made with Japanese tamago instead of the usual griddled egg."
Mission Local has a quick review of Grand Lake Kitchen's new outpost in Noe Valley, and critic Maria Ascarrunz seems to be a fan of everything except the vegan chickpea stew.
The Chronicle critics put out another ranked list that might rankle! This time it's a ranking of the best food to be found at the Ferry Building, and they launch some shots across the bow at the splashy new Arquet, calling it "uneven" and putting it at 15th on the list. Their two favorite spots? Lunette, from former Nyum Bai chef Nite Yun, and Arquet's sister bakery, Parachute, which they assert may be the best bakery in the city right now.
Top image: A salmon dish from The Tavern pop-up at Burdell, via Instagram.
