In this shortened week at our food desk, we learned that Sinbad's was finally a goner, ending their drawn-out fight with the Port of San Francisco. We also heard about the fast closure of ambitious Oakland Grand Fare Market. That came a mere six weeks after opening.
In that unfortunate vein, Rove Kitchen just opened six months ago, but Hoodline and Eater report that they're already closing. The culprit? A "colossal" rent hike. We'll have to wait around for a promised reboot for more of that quickly acclaimed fried chicken.
A "new and expanded" Bounty Hunter Wine & Bar & Smokin’ BBQ opens in Napa fewer than 200 feet east of its original First Street digs, Inside Scoop writes. The final move will occur in 2018 and includes a second floor "wine lab" learning center. Until then, the 2003-founded restaurant is holding its ground.
North Beach’s classic Original U.S. Restaurant is set to reopen under new ownership. Eater and Inside Scoop have it that, after a closure for the better part of a year interrupted the spot's 125 year run in the 'hood, old general manager Alberto Cipollina and San Francisco Giants executive vice president of business operations Mario Alioto will resurrect the Original U.S. (Unione Sportiva) Restaurant. "The city’s changed,” Alioto said. “But no matter how many changes, North Beach is ground zero for San Francisco. If we can be part of keeping a tradition alive, and telling our kids and their kids what this was all about, that’s important.” Those are stories best told over osso bucco, no?
The rumors are true: A challah-based pop-up brunch is coming to town. Alta CA hosts Holla! on December 5th and 6th, as per Facebook, so get in there for Choc-o-holla-ic (don't try to say it out loud) french toast, pecan challah buns, and a burger — you guessed it — on challah.
Homage is set to open in the Financial District according to Tablehopper. Break their fresh bread, fermented for three days and baked right there, all day. Chef David Kurtz, once of Maven, will open his space in the former Galette 88 in February if all goes well.
Next month will see the opening of Volta, the European brasserie we've been waiting for all year from the Perbacco team that's going into the former 'wichcraft space. As Hoodline and Tablehopper report, Volta will be offering primarily French fare with a Scandinavian bent, which happens to be the specialty of chef Staffan Terje, on the rear side of the Westfield Centre facing Mission.
Lauded pastry and sous chef Francis Ang is leaving Dirty Habit behind, Inside Scoop reveals. His sisig fried rice will be missed, but perhaps reprised at a restaurant concept, Pinoy Heritage, which has been in pop-up mode since October.
Chez Panisse co-chef Jérôme Waag has also given notice, Tablehopper has it, departing to open his own place in Tokyo. In the new year, sous chef Amy Dencler will take his place in the kitchen, alongside Cal Peternell. “I feel like it was now or never for me to open my own restaurant,” said Waag.
Bulka Bakery is claiming a stall at Second Act, the Haight Street marketplace. “To be at Second Act is a great start for me,” owner/operator Tatiana Kasatkina tells Hoodline. “It does not require a $100K or more investment to open a bake shop, and I can put different items on the menu to see what people like the most. It is going to be hard work and I cannot be more excited to get started!”
This Week In Reviews
Monseigneur Michael Bauer took a trip to two Carmel restaurants, Anton & Michel and Il Tegamino, under the auspices of the Chronicle. Neither was starred, both were both praised. "While the restaurants are very different in intent — one charmingly retro (Anton & Michel) the other very current (Il Tegamino) — they both add to the charm of the Carmel dining scene."
For his update review, the critic gave Sushi Ran in Sausalito 3 stars. At a restaurant in transitiion — longtime sushi chef Mitsunori Kusakabe left to start Kusakabe in San Francisco, which Bauer adored last July — "the food continues to resonate with clean, straightforward flavors, whether it’s sauteed morning-glory greens seasoned with chile sesame soy ($8), or roasted cauliflower spiced with turmeric ($8)." Though the rice in the nigiri could use rethinking, "Sushi Ran continues to be one of the best places for Japanese food in the Bay Area," Bauer proclaims.
Update: Hello and welcome back to the last This Week in SF Food. Michael Bauer has, once again, found the words for the food, this time at Cala, which readers will remember had already endeared itself to the palate of Weekly critic Pete Kane. Cala, says Bauer, is "setting standards for Mexican food in the Bay Area — and beyond. Because of [chef Gabriela Camara's] talent and laser focus, there’s a refinement in every dish that is hard to find in Mexican food anywhere in the United States." High praise for dishes at the "urban oasis" near Market on Fell such as the tostadas and Santa Cruz abalone (in "the best" presentation Bauer has encountered) merit three-and-a-half stars.