Lucky Peach, the quarterly food journal from McSweeney's and Momofuku chef David Chang, is preparing to unleash the fourth edition of their wordy and occasionally sanctimonious (but thankfully never gushy) collection of foodie spank bank material next month. We got a sneak peek at the upcoming American Food issue which, despite the national theme, has some glowing words for San Francisco's very own celebrated seafood counter.

So what makes Swan such a damn good place to eat? Despite competition from countless restaurants boasting sommeliers and "vegetables other than iceberg lettuce," Editor-in-Chief Chris Ying writes amidst photos of shellfish on ice, the century-old spot possesses a rarely attainable combination of hospitality, honesty and kitsch that make it "a beautiful and magical place to eat immaculate seafood and drink cold beer." Which shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone one who has had the pleasure of slurping oysters and Anchor Steams in the Sancimino family's operation.

Anyhow, if you're not already rushing to Polk Street for crab fat, you can pick up your own copy and drool over local photographer Drew Altizer's photo spread when it hits fine bookstores and newsstands on July 13th. And if you're a fan of David Chang using the word "fuck", CityArts and Lectures will be hosting the chef in conversation with Mythbuster Adam Savage on July 17th. Tickets to that show are unfortunately sold out already, so thoughtful foodies looking to get in should do what they do best and start queuing up now.

Meanwhile, the rest of the issue features the usual cast of top-notch food writers, some ramblings from Anthony Bourdain (who experienced Swan for The Layover awhile back), and an essay from chef Daniel Patterson of Coi on the subject of his favorite childhood dinner.