No pop-up nonsense. No umeboshi and deer butt wine pairings. No having to go to the goddamn Mission again. Just melted cheese in a bowl and a glass or five of wine in SoMa. That's it. That's all. Soak it in. Tonight's lousy weather calls for hot, savory cheese, and lots of it. And there's no better place for such a treat than at Fondue Cowboy on Folsom Street. Hold onto your lactobacillus acidophilus, folks, here's the wildly tasty, western-themed menu:

The Traditional
Swiss Gruyere, Ementhaller, White Wine, Roasted Garlic, Fresh Ground Nutmeg

The Outlaw
Aged Cheddar, Beer, Slow Roasted Tomatoes, Roasted Garlic, Roasted Jalapeno, Cilantro

The Stage Coach
Compte Cheese, White wine, Roasted Garlic

The Quick Draw
Manchego, White Wine, Roasted Red Puree, Roasted Garlic

The Rawhide
Italian Dolce Gorgonzola, Emmenthaler, White Wine, Bacon, Roasted Garlic

Fondue Cowboy also serves salumi plates, salads, and chocolate fondue pots as well. Each fondue, ranging from $24 and up, can feed at least two. They also pour fine wines and buzz-inducing beers of note. Make a reservation online or, better yet, sit at the spacious bar while gazing at a Western flick on the TV or chatting up friendly pilgrims to your left and right. (The bar has turned into quite the scene as of late, almost trumping the seating area.)

Fondue Cowboy, 1052 Folsom (between Russ & Sherman), S.F. 415-431-5100