This week in SF's food scene: Emmy's Spaghetti Shack is changing hands, a sleek new affordable sushi counter opens in the Fillmore, and an acclaimed New Orleans bartender is doing a pop-up in SF.
The venerable, 23-year-old Emmy's Spaghetti Shack in Mission/Bernal is changing hands, but it sounds like not much will change. Longtime owner Emmy Kaplan, who opened the place when she was 24, is looking for a change and was looking to sell, and a bartender she'd hired in 2021, Mike Irish, was looking to buy a business, and they struck a deal, as BrokeAss Stuart reports. Mike is reviving the midnight happy hour from Emmy's early days, geared toward restaurant industry folk, on weekends, and he's planning to offer $5 shots and keep drink and food prices affordable. And, Emmy's will return to seven-nights-a-week service (it's currently closed on Mondays.)
A sleek new sushi takeout counter, Aji Kiji, has opened in the Fillmore in the former Avery space (1552 Fillmore Street). As Tablehopper reports, it's the project of chef and co-owner Jinwoong Lim, whose nearby Korean tapas restaurant Bansang has received significant acclaim. Lim and his team say that Aji Kiji "was founded to make delicious sushi accessible at a reasonable price." The place is offering chirashi, donburi, maki, and nigiri boxes that range in price from $17 to $54, and all the fish is hand-sliced daily. You'll find the pre-made boxes in the restaurant's refrigerator case, and it's recommended to let them come to room temp before eating. (And note they've been selling out the past couple of days, so go early.)
Tablehopper also brings word of a new Mexican and cantina from the SanJalisco folks taking over the former Rumors space in SoMa (398 7th Street at Harrison). It's called Yossie's Cantina, and the extensive menu features all-day breakfast, including chilaquiles, seafood dishes, burritos, tacos, and combo platters. It's now open seven days a week, 10 am to 9 pm, and it's conveniently located near the Hall of Justice, in case you need lunch during jury duty.
Sobakatstu, a tiny new Japanese spot in Japantown devoted to the buckwheat noodles known as soba, is now open seven days a week at 1700 Laguna Street — underneath an apartment building. As the Chronicle reports, the eight-seat restaurant offers soba two ways — cold, with dipping sauce and vegetables, or hot in broth, with either tempura or soy-braised pork. Note that Sobakatsu keeps limited hours, open daily from noon to 7 pm.
For the cocktail nerds: Acclaimed New Orleans bartender Chris Hannah, whose bar-restaurant Jewel of the South just won the Oustanding Bar prize at the James Beard Awards, is making a special appearance at Pacific Cocktail Haven (550 Sutter Street), doing a Jewel of the South pop-up from 7 pm to 10 pm on Monday, August 5. Hannah will also be teaching a masterclass in making French 75s, sponsored by Dussé Cognac, at 1 pm on Monday.
Michael Mina's Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon is adding back a sushi menu after scrapping it prior to opening two years back. As Eater reports, chef Yukinori Yama, formerly of Mina's Pabu in SF, is doing a full menu of sushi, in addition to a semi-secret omakase menu served upstairs to just 12 diners at a time.
Wise Sons has closed its four-year-old Oakland location at 1700 Franklin Street, citing numerous break-ins and vandalism, as Berkeleyside reports. The Jewish deli and bagel operation still has multiple open locations in San Francisco, as well as the Beauty's Bagels Shop location, which Wise Sons owns, in the Temescal neighborhood.
And we haven't had a review of a new restaurant from Chronicle critic Mackenzie Chung Fegan in over a month, but she did apparently help update the paper's still bizarre "Top 25" list of Bay Area restaurants, that isn't much of a top 25, barely covers the Bay Area's breadth or its best restaurants, but I suppose it's a start.
Photo via Aji Kiji/Instagram