A lot of food news here from SFist this week: Mourad Lahlou's Aziza will close for two months to receive a renovation, Cowgirl Creamery has been sold to a bigger Swiss dairy company, and the (possibly cursed?) space on Mission where Hapa Ramen and Citizen Fox met their fates will become a Cajun restaurant from the folks at Causwell's. We also took a look ahead at the upcoming food festival season and the lavish food lineup planned for Outside Lands. For the curious consumer (and not for the faint of heart), here also is a little inside baseball explanation of how restaurants change their names after Health Department shutdowns. Finally, how could we not share our thoughts on the most expensive slice of pizza seen to man? Serrano's is charging $10.35 a slice in the Mission, so do with that knowledge what you will. Now, feast your hungry eyes on the rest of what's happening in the San Francisco food world.
LocoL, the fast (but healthy) food venture from star chefs Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson, has dropped that apostrophe in its name and will be opening next week in Oakland instead of, as originally planned, the Tenderloin. The Chronicle explains that LocoL, whose first location opened in Watts, is in the space that formerly held Patterson's restaurant Plum, next door to Plum Bar. Eater has it more specifically that LocoL will open on Wednesday for $5 burgers, $7 noodle bowls, and more.
Overwhelmed by crowds, popular Taiwanese dumpling den Din Tai Fung's first Bay Area location in Santa Clara has gone reservation-only, as Inside Scoop reports. And, wouldn't you know it, a few entrepreneurial types are now selling their reservations at the restaurant on Craigslist for $50 according to Eater.
Souvla Divisadero will open in late June, Eater says. The Greek gyro and froyo counter service restaurant found a sweet spot in Hayes Valley, and the expansion to the former Herbavore (RIP) has been on the books since last December.
Eater also had the latest on a big new opening on the same strip: Che Fico, the Italian restaurant from Eleven Madison Park and Nobu alum David Nayfield, to be co-owned by Matt Brewer that we first heard about in September. Che Fico is going in at 834-838 Divis in a former auto body shop, and while it won't be open this spring as anticipated, expect doors to open this summer. Angela Pinkerton, formerly of Eleven Madison Park and most recently a consultant with Crafstman & Wolves, is also onboard as executive pastry chef.
Mac Daddy, a mac-and-cheese-focused restaurant from the Dat Spot/Chez Maman players, has opened. Eater has the first word on the comfort food spot — 10 or so Yelpers agree that it's good.
While the supposedly boozy Taco Bell in SoMa arrived cruelly dry, Eater has the news the Berkeley might beat us to the *punch.* At 2528B Durant Ave the Taco Bell company is plotting one of their new Taco Bell Cantina places — more shared food in a lounge-y atmosphere, and yes, booze — but it's still in the development phase of things.
Sous Beurre Kitchen on 24th Street has closed. For good. It's also not entirely clear to Inside Scoop what happened with the French restaurant, which was open for over a year and received some nice write-ups.
Earlier this month we primed you on Tawla, an Eastern Mediterranean place coming to lower Valencia, and now Inside Scoop has scored their menu. Made-to-order bread will anchor dishes, and a lot of items will be unfamiliar to most diners.
Pampalasa on Folosm is closing this summer after opening last May. Inside Scoop reports that the Filipino joint, a longtime dream of Jennifer Villamin, may live on in some fashion. "We love being Pampalasa, but, after a year of struggling, we still cannot sustain our excessively high rent," reads an email sent to customers. "Thus, we are selling the business and will be closing our doors after the summer."
Bottle shop Ales Unlimited has opened its new Beer Basement in the TL cellar formerly home to 222 Hyde and then The Basement. Hoodline reports that the place's eight taps will start pouring on Saturday.
BDK opened to acclaim in the TL last year, but everyone quit in March when the hotel changed hands. It appears to have trudged on since then, but now it's going to get some kind of makeover under the name Tratto, though Hoodline, who report, have no details beyond the hospitality group whose portfolio is entirely hotel bars and restaurants.
Last, while the new owner of the Grubstake, had flip-flopped on whether or not he was razing it (as plans indicated he was) in order to build condos, Hoodline reports that, indeed yes, the well-loved railcar space swill be demolished. In the spirit of compromise, a diner will re-open in the new building.
This Week In Reviews
Esther Mobley drank some aquavit for the Chronicle at Volta, which she explains is a Scandinavian liquor "produced by flavoring a neutral spirit, such as grain alcohol or potato vodka, with spices, herbs and fruits, typically caraway and dill seed." Speaking with Staffan Terje, co-owner and chef of Volta, Mobley learns that the alcohol is "a palate cleanser, really, for rich Nordic food," served by the small shot glass. If you go, start with the Volta! cocktail, a "a deftly balanced drink" that's a gateway to the stuff.
Ms. Anna Roth found TLC at the TL's Tender Loving Food, writing for the Chronicle that while there's "not much to look at," the hole-in-the-wall serves up "fragrant Burmese noodle soups, crisp samosas and funky salads" that "make up for what it lacks in ambience and service." That's "especially considering that the portions are huge and hardly anything costs more than $10."
Monsieur Michel Bauer’s midweek review is of Les Clos, Mark Bright’s wine bar and bottle shop of less than two years. Dishes like the Basque "where the chicken falls off the bone and mingles with the pepper and tomato sauce" are "beautifully realized," and while "wine pours are modest... food portions are generous, especially given the price." Bauer endorses the creme brulée and awards two-and-a-half stars.
Pete Kane of the Weekly toured Tony Gemignani’s Slice House in The Market on Market, where $6 slices are "worth every cent." His recommendations are for the sweet grandma and the purple Potato. While "it might be priced more in sync with a Lyft than a Muni ride... Slice House shows that The Market had room enough for another great addition," writes Kane.
Bauer has also been dining at Coi, whose kitchen is now helmed by Matthew Kirkley since Daniel Patterson stepped down to focus on his growing restaurant empire. Now, the restaurant is seafood-focused and though "the changes are evident in every presentation" from "start to finish the menu was brilliantly conceived." Detailing each surprising and delightful dish, Bauer, who is evidently a bit of a fashion snob, does voice one complaint. "The waiters’ uniforms also telescope a lack of precision and attention to detail," he writes, "The brown cotton sport coats coordinate with the interior, but the fabric often is worn and isn’t correctly tailored." Citing the extremely high price of the meal, the critic justifies his gripe. That, along with other service errors, brings down the four stars for food, with its two-and-a-half stars for service, to a three-and-a-half star total rating. So close, you guys.