In an inside-baseball market where chefs make headlines for leaving their esteemed eateries for dreams of indie-like taquerias or whatever, we are nothing short of elated to see this edible dish of unabashed link-whoring. Coming from Katsu in Los Gatos (naturally), this here is "The Decadence Staircase" and it runs between $1,000-$1,500.
Does this indicate that chef-driven dining is beginning its inevitable down the intestines of popularity and into the ink-sleeved bowel chambers of yesterday? God, we hope so. Look at this dish: It's so anti-San Francisco, but in a very necessary way—from the fanned-out vegetable accents to the bamboo leafs to the blasphemous lack of an Edison bulb's glow.
"The Decadence Staircase" would have the power to plunge half of the city's food critics, PR cronies, and affected Missionites into early graves; the bombasticism of it all. As Inside Scoop describes it, "it’s a literal staircase filled with several different types of caviar, spiny lobster sashimi (topped with 24 karat gold leaf because why not) and Japanese Wagyu shabu shabu."
All hail the return of slutty food. At last.