It's that time of year again, and Bon Appetit has just revealed its Best New Restaurants of 2023 — seeing fit to include two from San Francisco this time around.
After years of doing a "Hot 10" list honoring the ten best new restaurants around the country, Bon Appetit mixed it up coming out of the pandemic and named 50 best new restaurants in 2022. Unfortunately, only a single SF restaurant, Good Good Culture Club, made the cut on that list — alongside Oakland's DAYTRIP.
That poor showing, following some years in the last decade where San Francisco took the top spot on the list and/or had two out of the ten, was followed up by this opinion piece by Bon App restaurant critic Elazar Sontag discussing how nothing particularly inspiring is happening in SF's food scene these days.
Sontag called out Shuggie's Trash Pie & Natural Wine as an exception in that February piece, and lo and behold Shuggie's is now on Bon Appetit's Best New Restaurants list, which this year is 24 restaurants long.
Also on the list is Noodle In a Haystack, the ramen tasting-menu restaurant in the Richmond from chefs Clint and Yoko Tan that was also a noted fave of Soleil Ho before they stepped down from the critic's job at the Chronicle — and they named it one of the city's best restaurants, full stop. Salazar praised the Tan's menu as "eight courses with rapturous focus," gushing especially about the single, stellar bowl of tendon-dashi ramen that is the final savory course.
Salazar calls Shuggie's "a psychedelic, see-it-to-believe-it temple to the sorts of wilted odds and ends we may have chucked in the compost," and "one of the most delicious and exciting parties we’ve had the good fortune of attending."
Congrats to both spots, which should each get a boost — at least from foodinista tourists — thanks to the Bon Appetit love.
Next up, the New York Times may update its Best Restaurants list, which came out last year with 50 entries from across the country, not all of them new. And, come November, we should also be getting a best new restaurants list from Esquire like we did last year (Shuggie's was on that one too, last year).
Also out this weeks is Food & Wine's prestigious Best New Chefs list, and what do you know, there is not a Bay Area chef on there for 2023.