In a week with so much happening in the world, it feels almost frivolous to mull restaurant gossip. But, hey, we all gotta eat! That's why we told you about Jardinere's DACA benefit, Villon's opening inside Proper Hotel, several SF Safeways' returns to 24-hour operation, the fate of the state's foie gras ban, Juhu Beach Club's closure, the city's best places for ice cream, and Ayesha Curry's new gig hosting a baking competition show. But that's not all that happened, read on.
An SF cookie dough kiosk called Doughp inspired controversy after a reporter expressed unease with the casual drug jokes and cultural appropriation going on there. Eater's got a good roundup of the reactions, where do you stand?
Less controversial is AltoVino, which Tablehopper reports will be taking over the old Mason Pacific space at 1358 Mason Street. Expect authentic Italian food from across the multiple regions, as owner Claudio Villani already offers at his popular Cole Valley enoteca, InoVino
Already open is Iron Horse Cocktails, the 25 Maiden Lane location of which was the home of the storied Iron Horse Restaurant in the 1950-70s. The new iteration features an ambitious cocktail list, Hoodline reports, as well as beer on tap. During the day, it's also the Iron Horse Coffee Bar, bet you can't guess what they serve there.
From a new bar we move to one in peril: Oddjob, whose 1337 Mission Street space is the site of a proposed mixed-use development. While plans include a bar/restaurant, the lengthy closure necessary for construction might mean that it's not Oddjob that occupies the new space, SocketSite warns.
The Perrenial is hanging in there at 59 9th Street, Eater reports, with a new chef (Commonwealth's Michael Andreatta) and a monthly dinner/speaker series launching next month. There's a rebooted menu, too.
Via press release we learn that the Hotel Kabuki (1625 Post Street) will soon be home to a new lobby bar they appear to be calling The Bar, a decision that should be fantastic for their SEO. Stephanie Ann Wheeler is overseeing its "impressive craft cocktail list and culinary program will be guided by Japanese Influence reflecting its location at the apex of Japantown and Pacific Heights," with an apparent emphasis on Japanese whiskey and sake. They'll be serving lounge plates in the evening and "an upscale continental" breakfast in the mornings. It's expected to open next month.
Your fond childhood memories of Round Table Pizza just got a little tattered, I fear, as the Concord-based chain was just purchased by an Atlanta food conglomerate with the warm and wonderful name "Global Franchise Group." The Chron reports that the new owner of the franchise, which was founded in Menlo Park in 1959, "plans to 'remodel' restaurants, as well as invest in improvements to the franchise's technological capabilities."
Hawker Fare, which closed its Oakland location at the beginning of the year, is back in town (kind of). Founder James Syhabout is opening a fast-casual version of the place called Hawking Bird at the corner of 49th Street and Telegraph. He's taking over the space October 1, the Chron reports, and full details on things like opening date and the menu are still being worked out.
While we're talking Oakland, their beloved soul food chef Tanya Holland is bringing her Brown Sugar Kitchen to the Ferry Building, the SF Business Times reports. Eater says this is all part of a planned expansion of her brand, the Brown Sugar Kitchen Hospitality Group. Opening date is TBD.
This Week In Reviews
SF Weekly's Peter Lawrence Kane took on Hazel Southern Bar & Kitchen, the pan-Southern joint now occupying the former digs of high-profile Mid-Market flop Cadence. He begins with the bad, terming their biscuits "forgettable" (a crime that my small-town Indiana Home Ec teacher would have rewarded with a paddling). Getting higher praise was the Southern stand-by of tater tot nachos (don't @ me, that's sarcasm) and their braised oxtail. Most worrisome, Kane says, is that "it’s bro-y in there," likely a result of its proximity to Uber HQ.
Over at the Chronicle, Michael Bauer spent some time justifying Del Popolo's inclusion in their Top 100 list even though they're but a humble pizza parlor. His actual review was for Robin, the omakase offerings at which Bauer says are "cutting edge" and "nontraditional" (but in a good way). "Many courses often have a fruity, slightly sweet component," Bauer says of the fixed price menu, ascribing the flavor profile to the American palate to which Robin caters. In the end, a solid three stars all around.