This week, SFist had news of changes to Nopa's late night hours, Safeway's move to buy up Andronico's, and a primer on the tiniest new bar in the Mission. It was a big week for chef Michael Chiarello, who was arrested in Napa on DUI and posession charges a day after a settlement in his sexual harassmet case. And, I swear to god I had a dream that I made crab toast — Jesus, I know — that was inspired by the news that, come Thanksgiving, local Dungeness crab would be available without problem this year.
Finally, we just got word that Doughnut Dolly plans to finally open in The Market of the Twitter Building on Monday after a bit of a holdup. Owner Hannah Hoffman's opening day lineup is a winner: Naughty Cream, Cherry Jam, Bourbon Cream, and Dark Chocolate will be available.
Other foods news was as follows:
Aster, Brett Cooper's Mission District darling, is losing its pastry chef Sean Ehland to Marla Bakery, but not before a revamped dessert menu launches. Eater has some detailed photos of those items that border on the pornographic but are safe for work.
The plans for Emporium SF are moving forward according to Hoodline. That's an arcade bar chain SFist wrote of here that's been hoping to move into the old Harding theater on Divisadero next to the Independent. "Our sense is people are ready for it to not be a big vacant building," Emporium's co-owner Danny Marks told SFist (and that was last October!)
Oakland's Claremont Diner, which had just reopened earlier in the year under new management, has folded per the East Bay Express. Also in East Bay closure news: Pathos Organic Greek Kitchen of Berkeley is closed, perhaps temporarily according to Berkeleyside, depending on how negotiations with its landlord on Shattuck go down. Last, Grand Fare Market, which closed to retool and came back to life once already in the last year, will now close for good. Eater had that news, with owner Doug Washington saying that “I don’t regret any of it,” (English for "je ne regret rien.")
When was the last time you went to the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market? There are several new reasons to swing by, as Inside Scoop enumerates. 4505 Meats, for instance, is out, and coming in is a former butcher with that company, Giovanni Betteo, with his Salt Pt. Butchery and Provisions. There's also Crumble & Whisk (personal cheesecakes from Charles Farrie), Kantine (Scandinavian-style smørrebrød from Nichole Accettola), Volcano Kimchi (organic and vegan plus kimchi juice shots from Aruna Lee), and Fifth Crow Farm with produce and flowers from Pescadero.
A former Google employee, Hetal Shah, is opening a new Indian restaurant in the Mid-Market area on Van Ness with her husband according to the Business Times. That's called August 1 Five after the day marking India's independence, and it opens November 11. In San Francisco, "there is decent Indian food, what we consider slightly heavier with more use of butter and cream, which is not the case in traditional Indian food," Shah told the Business Times. "There wasn't a lot of options when it came to really good Indian food."
La Boulangerie de San Francisco, the chain snatched up by Starbucks under its former name La Boulange, then shuttered, then bought back and brought back to life, has reopened its sixth spot, this one in the Financial district. Eater had the news about the spot at 222 Sutter (at Kearny) that's serving up such pastries as pumpkin spice kouign-amman.
Sofia Café is opening on Monday in the former Cafe Sophie space (a naming coincidence) on 16th. Tablehopper says that it will be breakfast and lunch with coffee to start. Another coffee shop replacement of a sort: The Fueling Station is headed to Russian Hill on Polk where The Brew once was. This new venture, Hoodline writes, comes from Lillian Wong whose classics with a twist approach includes a caprese waffle: "If you love fresh mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, and pesto in a liege waffle, this is for you," she told Hoodline.
This Week In Reviews:
Peter Kane at the Weekly wanted to check out the late night dining gravitas of 12-year-old SoMa spot Oola. His take: "Prices are good, and the atmosphere is lively." In the end. "This wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for date night, but as an after-work spot to talk shit about your passive-aggressive coworkers with your cool coworker who totally gets you, or for a late-night nosh before you’re about to sleep it off, Oola works very well."
Kane also tackled a new offering from the chain Osha Thai, Lao Table, which he says is a contender for the most beautiful dining room in the city. "The interior is hung with checked prints, and there are huge arrangements of flowers among large yet tasteful statuary," writes Kane. "If you’re going to throw down for crying tiger steak or a coconut Alaskan king crab curry with fermented rice noodles, you might as well do so in amid gorgeous environs." Of the food: "It’s safe to say that the freshness of flavor that characterizes upmarket Southeast Asian cooking has found a new benchmark for excellence here," Kane writes, praising the work of chef Lalita Souksamlane. However, vegetarians might have a different reaction to this meat-centric menu.
Finally, Ann Roth went to Tartine Manufactory for the Chronicle, which she declares to have lived up to the hype, a considerable accomplishment. "Of course I love Tartine Manufactory, if that weren’t obvious," she says glowingly. "It represents everything I’ve come to admire and respect about the simple elegance of California cooking." Her recommendations: basically everything, but also the porchetta sandwich in particular, available at breakfast and lunch.
Mr. Bauer didn't have an update review this week, apparently, but for his Sunday review he makes his three visits to the new Limewood at the Claremont Hotel in Berkeley, which replaced the extremely short-lived, Dominique Crenn-led Antoinette. Chef Joseph Humphrey is no stranger to the Bay Area dining scene, having worked as executive chef at Meadowood (before its current incarnation), Murray Circle in Sausalito, and his southern-inspired Presidio spot Dixie, before serving as opening chef at The Advocate, nearby in Berkeley, which closed after a year. Despite the many moves in the last few years, Bauer says his food is "finding an appropriate home" here. He floves a snack course of cornmeal-battered fried eggplant with sumac and and Green Goddess dressing that he says is "probably the best fried eggplant I’ve had." He also enjoys a mussel and corn chowder and some fried oysters, and says the lunch meny burger is top notch and worth a trip. All told: two and a half stars.