As always around these foodie parts, a lot happened in the world of food this week. We highlighted the best destination doughnut spots, learned that Soylent Food Bars are making some customers violently ill, saw Blue Bottle exit its relationship with Heath Ceramics, and took a preview look at new restaurants opening this fall. Also, Francis Ford Coppola hinted at a new restaurant. Here's what else happened.
Smuggler’s Cove, Trick Dog, and ABV all scored coveted spots on the World's 50 Best Bars list this year. Relaying congratulations, Inside Scoops writes that Smuggler's cove jumped up two rungs from number 31 to number 29 and that Trick Dog clinched number 34, up from 40 last year. It was ABV's first year on the list, where it shot straight to 36.
The popular brunch spot Mama's abandoned its plans to launch a spinoff tentatively named Lil Mama's. InsideScoop reports that Mama's owners wanted to make it happen, and even secured a location, but that "it just didn’t make sense at the end of the day."
While Mama's may not have been able to make the expansion work, Soul Groove is chugging right ahead. Hoodline tells us that the chicken and waffles-focused eatery opened a second location with the intention of focusing on sit-down dining at Ellis and Larkin.
In related chicken headlines, The Brim, a Korean friend chicken joint, is set to open in the Tenderloin. According to Hoodline, the restaurant is moving into a now-vacant flower shop, and an early January opening date is being targeted.
Just in time for this weekend's expected warm weather, the Chronicle tells us that frosé has made its way to San Francisco. Combining rosé and, yes, slushies, the desert/booze drink is set to be offered at the Palm House. But act fast if you want to guzzle one of these down and brain-freeze yourself to oblivion — the drinks are only available Sundays in October.
Speaking of unique combinations, Onsen, a combination Japanese bathhouse and restaurant, is opening in the Tenderloin next month. Hoodline reports that the multi-use business will call an old City Automotive auto body shop home. "We wanted to make a place where people can connect with each other," co-owner Caroline Smith told the publication. "I like the concept of people sitting around and drinking tea, not hanging over computers or on their cell phones." And yes, no computers in the bath is a good idea.
The restaurant Stones Throw will continue its charitable dinner series, with the next two involving Souvla chef Tony Cervone and Del Popolo chef Jeffery Hayden. Eater tells us that tickets are $60 per person, and that proceeds will be donated to the non-profit Old Skool Café.
Cafe Delucchi, we learn via SocketSite, is considering moving into the Delucchi Sheet Metal Works. The restaurant is losing the lease on its current home, and is working with the city to get plans for a restaurant in the Metal Works location approved.
Elephant Bar, an Asian-fusion chain, just closed half of its Bay Area restaurants. The Business Times reports that no explanation has been given for the abrupt shuttering as of this time.
The much-loved (and long gone) Mission Street Food pop-up is coming back for one night only on Monday the 24 at The Perennial, Eater tells us. Acting fast on reservations is strongly encouraged, as this one-off affair is likely to get booked out quickly. Mission Street Food, of course, presaged the award-winning Mission Chinese.
Sebastopol is about to get a fast-casual seafood spot by the name of Handline. InsideScoop reports that the duo behind Peter Lowell’s are heading the project. Expect sustainable, locally caught seafood.
In definitely not sustainable news, we learn via Hoodline that the McDonald's at 3rd and Townsend has closed. The building is set to be demolished to make way for a Hyatt Place Hotel.
Meanwhile, in the Outer Sunset, Lawton Trading Post will become a new location for Seven Stills — a distillery and brewery. "We're going for a Mexican surfer beach vibe, and are having Lauren Napolitano do a mural on one wall," Seven Stills's CEO Tim Obert told Hoodline.
On a more serious note, chef Daniel Patterson detailed his struggle with depression to MAD. "It felt like the blood had been drained from my body and replaced with lead," he writes of his symptoms. "I was barely functional, and even the simplest conversations required vast amounts of energy." Patterson's examination of his own challenges, and those of many in the industry, make for an informative read.
This Week In Reviews
With the looming weekend on everyone's mind, the Chronicle's Esther Mobley takes a look at Pacific Cocktail Haven — the new bar opened by noted local bartender Kevin Diedrich. With stints cut short at Burritt Room, Jasper’s, and BDK — all for different reasons — Diedrich has room to play at PCH, and Mobley is clearly a fan. The Lime in da Coconut, a drink with the consistency of a milkshake, stands out. As does the Sherry Cobbler, which includes orange marmalade. PCH is not, Diedrich very much wants you to know, a tiki bar. “I don’t think I have any real connection to tiki," he told the Chron. Pacific Cocktail Haven strikes Mobley as very "of-the-moment," but it's clear she means it as a compliment.
Anna Roth of the Chronicle takes a look at what she predicts will be the next big thing in SF: the jianbing. She writes that one of the best in the Bay can be found at Tai Chi Jianbing — an Inner Sunset popup that prides itself on what can perhaps best be described to the unfamiliar as a northern Chinese crepe. Cheng Hu gets the credit for making the organic version of the dish which grabs Roth's eye, telling her that he's "really trying to give the American customer a new image of Chinese food.” Hu sets up his stand most mornings in front of Nabe. Roth suggests newbies start with the traditional crepe.
Peter Lawrence Kane of the Weekly heads over to Nightbird to sink his teeth into the long-awaited restaurant from Kim Alter. He recommends the tasting menu, and gives a shout out to the cocktail list (try the Owl Pacino). After the amuse bouche, Kane details the various dishes — settling on the “Variations of corn” as the "cleverest." And while the ambiance may be "boring," the food is not. Nor is the service, which Kane acknowledges is how it should be for such an expensive place (a dinner for two can hit $500). All in all, he's quite the fan.
The Chronicle's Michael Bauer returns to Mill Valley Beerworks for his mid-week checkup. Run by Tyler and Justin Catalana, with a menu by Rob Hurd, Bauer finds that vegetables remain the focus of most dishes. For those who know Bauer's tastes, it is no surprise that he finds the Brussels sprouts to be of particular note. He approves of the mains, and finds himself at ease with the atmosphere. "Mill Valley Beerworks continues to be the type of place we’d all love to have in our neighborhood," writes Bauer — we presume will sipping one of the beers brewed onsite. He gives it two and a half stars.
For his Sunday review, Bauer decides that a few drinks are in order. He makes his way to Buffalo Theory, the craft-beer focused restaurant run by Ted Kim and chef Tim Luym, and delights in the beer and fried-food pairings. However, this is both good and bad for the critic — noting that "the kitchen is at its best when dunking things in vats of bubbling oil," he suggests it falls short when attempting dishes even slightly more complex. However, the BT Burger, a physically large item, catches Bauer's attention not just for its size but its "excellent" flavors. Execution and service don't quite meet the 30-year critic's expectations, although the servers know a lot about beer. Bauer gives the restaurant two stars.