This was a busy week in the world of food. Dunkin' Donuts opened a shop in Walnut Creek, we learned of an upcoming chance to drink beer on a Treasure Island beach, the Mission got a new Indian restaurant, officials told us they plan on cracking down on unpermitted food vendors during Pride, and robots started making our pizza. Here's what else happened:
The delicious looking (but perhaps unfortunately named) Tacorea is set to open this Monday in the former space of Jasmin's Cafe, Hoodline tells us. Serving a combination of Mexican and Korean food, chef and co-owner David Lee will cook up street tacos, totchos, and pork bowls in an attempt to draw the late-night crowd. Breakfast will also be served.
Meanwhile, Eater reports that Fly Trap in SoMa now has a new owner. Bar manager Valen West took the place over, and will slowly shift it to a different theme — although what that theme will be remains unclear.
Eater also tells us that Tommy's Joynt owner Chris Henry is buying No. 9 Fishermen’s Grotto at Fisherman's Wharf, where the previous owners are retiring. Henry plans to keep the staff, but update the restaurant's feel and the menu, and focus on locally and sustainably sourced fish.
For those who think grocery shopping would be a whole lot better if you could get lit while doing it, The Market — inside the Twitter building — has heard your calls. Starting at 8:00 a.m., Inside Scoop reports that you can now drink in the store while you wander the aisles.
A new cafe and art gallery just opened in Oakland, Eater tells us. Tertulia Coffee is run and owned by Tim and Maria Sanchez, and will serve Stumptown coffee and Firebrand pastries. Expect curated art.
Poke continues to take FiDi by storm as Hoodline reports that two new Poke restuarants are set to open. Ohana Poke and Salad Bar looks to be almost ready to open at 605 Kearny Street, and Coast Poke Counter is in the process of getting permits for One Market Plaza.
A new Sicilian restaurant, Agrodolce, will soon move into what was once Berkeley's Cafe Gratitude. According to Inside Scoop, brothers Angelo and Gary D’Alo are hoping for a late-summer opening.
San Mateo's Osteria Coppa will close, Inside Scoop reports, so that owners Paul and Julie Shenkman can focus on their other restaurant and food trucks. A new owner bought the business, but at this time there is no information as to who they are or what they intend to do with the space.
A new brand of chilled, vegetable soup will soon be unleashed on the world via Jon Sebastiani and Ayesha Curry. The Business Times tells us that they intend to disrupt the $8 billion-a-year soup industry.
Healdsburg has a new addition to its cocktail scene with Duke’s Spirited Cocktails. Laura Sanfilippo, Tara Heffernon, and Steven Maduro of Spoonbar intend to provide a rotating selection of fresh snacks to accompany their spirit menu.
This Week In Reviews
The Weekly's Peter Lawrence Kane made his way to Lazy Bear, the two-year-old Mission restaurant that has received heaps of praise since it opened. Kane piles it on — notably, though, he finds the food and presentation more fun than transcendent (it also reads like he was a little drunk by the end). Which, with so many restaurants taking themselves so seriously, make him (and us) happy. Yes, it is expensive, and yes, it is hard to get a reservation, but Kane assures us all that it is in fact worth the wait. Oh, and he loves the fried soft shell crab.
For his mid-week checkup, Michael Bauer of the Chronicle chows down at Picco in Larkspur. He writes that new chef de cuisine Jason Tuley does a good job of keeping the possibly too-varied menu feeling thoughtful and well executed. The salads are what really grab Bauer's attention, and he calls out warm toasted walnuts for transforming an otherwise familiar plate. He is not as impressed with the mains, though his complaints seem to be addressed at a side accompanying the tuna rather than the fish itself. Notably, he dedicates column space to call out excellent service, reminding us of the importance of a well-paced meal. He gives it three stars.
For his Sunday review, Bauer visited Fulton Street's Ju-ni and found a lot to like. With descriptions bordering on the absurd (e.g., "it's like descending into a warm bath while being tickled by a silk curtain billowing in the breeze"), he makes it clear that the omakase-style restaurant is worth the two-month wait for a reservation and steep price. The service is individualized, and the presentation is extremely detailed. Chef Geoffrey Lee and his partner Tan Truong knock the 12-course meal out of the park with a "focused purity" that Bauer finds irresistible. The review reads like Bauer will return in his spare time, paycheck permitting.
Kane included some booze in his busy week of reviews, visiting the brand new Pacific Cocktail Haven, and came away impressed by the inspired cocktail menu. Helmed by Kevin Diedrich, the spot is just a few blocks from Union Square (in the former Cantina) and offers everything from the $68 (intended to share) Pimm's Explosion to a mixture of Jägermeister, Cherry Heering, Maraschino, Green Chartreuse called the Drakkar Noir. With a chill spot to hang out in the back, Kane clearly enjoyed his time at PCH and lauds it as touching on both "the clever and the new."
Visiting James Versfelt's ATwater Tavern, Kane finds more to like in the land-based meats than those originating in the sea. The 180-seat, two-level restaurant on Pier 50 solidly represents cocktails and offers a lot to chose from, but Kane is "not sure" about the place — calling it "a conservative establishment wrapped in some trendy packaging." Although, logically, the fact that it is a 180-seat spot probably contributes to conservatism in menu choices, the uniformed police at the restaurant might have left more of an impression on the reviewer than the $33 bone-in lamb frites. In the end, Kane suggests he just might rather eat at The Ramp.