When famously fastidious and, yes, sometimes fascistic Ino Sushi closed in the Japantown Mall after 37 years, it left a small physical void to fill and a large emotional one.

Tying to fill both as Eater and Tablehopper are reporting is An Japanese Restaurant, a sushi counter that's now open for business.

The nightly omakase menu in traditional edomae style is $80, and if that's not for you, don't bank on crazy rolls — instead, expect to be greeted by a brief menu of select nigiri and a bit more, with an emphasis squarely on fish.

The restaurant arrives from former Koo Sushi owner, Kiyoshi Hayakawa, who explains on the site that An means “a modest cottage where in old times monks and artists rest and spend a peaceful time being isolated from the rest of the world.”

Perhaps customers can expect, then, to be a bit more welcome or at ease at the new restaurant than the last one — although patrons of Ino Sushi will remember with maybe some nostalgia the sense that it was a privilege to be there.

An Japanese Restaurant, 22 Peace Plaza #510 (Japan Center East Mall, Upper Level), Tuesday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., 415-292-4886

Previously: Beloved Tiny Sushi Bar, Ino Sushi, Closing Next Week After 37 Years