Did our sandwich roundup make you hungry? Because I'm pretty full. Anyhow, in addition to the openings of Cockscomb and Indochine this week, here's what else has been going on about town, food-and-beverage-wise.
This week marked the one-year anniversary of the death of the great Judy Rodgers, the woman who brought us the Zuni Café we know today, as well as the still popular Zuni cookbook. Rodgers was a significant, if quiet and humble force in maturation of California cuisine, and her good friend Gayle Pirie, chef-owner of Foreign Cinema, just penned a moving piece for Inside Scoop marking the somber anniversary, and her memories of Rodgers' last meals.
In other news, excellent Richmond Turkish restaurant Troya has closed their original, ten-year-old Inner Richmond location at Clement and Fifth in favor of focusing on their second, Fillmore Street location, opened two years ago. As Eater reports, the focus of the Pac Heights restaurant is set to shift to something more generally Mediterranean, and there's a remodel of the space in the works as well. No word on what is happening at the Clement Street spot as of yet.
Coming shortly in Union Square is 398 Restaurant and Bar (398 Geary Street), which is slated to open on December 15. As a press release tells us, chefs Sylvain Royer and Sam Fechheimer, who just opened Klyde Cafe and Wine Bar next door in October, are opening this huge, 124-seat space with a full bar that will feature what sounds like a fairly straightforward and tourist-friendly menu of steaks, grilled Scallops in a truffle cream sauce, and pastas like fettuccine carbonara. Most exciting though will be a new bar program from the guys behind the now gone Big, Brian Felley and Mo Hodges, which will be easily accessible during the holiday shopping rush. Also coming in January will be an upstairs bar.
All is not well on Divisadero where angry neighbors are trying to block La Urbana’s plan for outdoor seating. As Hoodline reports. A small-sounding but determined neighborhood group has even formed around the cause of filing noise complaints against La Urbana and preventing the plan for 14 new sidewalk tables. They're called the Grove Residents' Rights Resource, and they say it's their mission to address issues affecting "tenants and homeowners on and around Grove Street and the Popeye's Gulch neighborhood." Popeye's Gulch, ladies and gentlemen. You heard it here.
Over in SoMa, the Plumpjack Group is taking over the club formerly known as Sloane (1525 Mission Street), with plans to open what would appear to be a Plumpjack-managed lounge or club of some sort next year. Details remain thin, but as Inside Scoop tells us, Gavin Newsom's sister Hilary Newsom, who heads the restaurant group, they're excited to "embrace the changing Mid-Market neighborhood and recent tech revival." This news comes just shortly after Plumpjack moved to acquire the Luna Park space on Valencia, so clearly they're in expansion mode.
And in big North Bay news, chef-restaurateur Charlie Palmer (Dry Creek Kitchen, Burritt Room + Tavern) is expanding to the Napa side of things with the purchase of The Harvest Inn in St. Helena. As Eater notes, the inn will center on The Harvest Table, which will feature farm-to-table cuisine. Both the inn and restaurant are slated for a mid-2015 opening.
If you're around for the holidays and looking to take part in the delicious Italian Christmas tradition of The Feast of the Seven Fishes, Tablehopper has a handy roundup of which restaurants are offering what, including special menus at A16, Locanda, and AQ.
Week In Reviews
Mr. Bauer devoted his Sunday review this week to the revamped, relocated Marlowe, to which he gives a glowing three stars. He still says their burger is "the best in the city," and he's impressed with a few new additions to the already great menu, including the French breakfast radish toast, the chicken-fried okra, and the creamy mushroom soup.
And Anna Roth says it's "easy to succumb" to the charms of Les Clos (234 Townsend Street), the new Saison-spinoff wine bar from wine guy Mark Bright. She says that the place "doesn't break much new ground or significantly challenge the palate" with its French bistro menu, and chef Shawn Gawle does an excellent job with staples like Parisian gnocchi, the croque monsieur, and the Basque roast chicken. And wine, well, is in abundance, with forty wines available by the glass or carafe, or in flights.