Hark! The Sixth Street treasure, once known as much for its imperial roll divinity as it was for its lack of cleanliness, reopens today. If you recall, the gritty eatery had to close last year due to health issues. Even though the menu was up-and-down delicious -- your editor once ate there even after a cockroach fell atop his dinner date's head -- the city saw fit to temporarily shutter the place. But now it's back.
Regarding the sanitation issue, Paolo Lucchesi reports: "The beloved, if gritty, Vietnamese dive near Market and Sixth has undergone a complete remodel, both inside and out. In particular, the entire kitchen has been redone with stainless steel and new kitchenware equipment. The staff has been educated about safe food preparation methods as well, adds [owner Anthony Nguyen]."
Yes, foodie types will initially litter the joint with long lines, self pride, and endless #ing. But Tu Lan extends far beyond the food-truck bacon-cupcake salted-caramel hyperlocaltrocity that befall many SF dining establishments and areas as of late. Tu Lan, you see, remains a solid institution. So much so that Julia Child adorns (adorned?!) its menus. Herb Caen wrote of the noted gastronome's visit, "Julia Child at Tu Lan on sleazy Sixth, a place with great Vietnamese chow. She contented herself with spring rolls, pork shish kebabs with rice noodles, lemon beef salad, fried fish in ginger and Tsingtao beef."
Menu will remain the same, but will feature new additional items. Prices will go up by a quarter. It's even got new signage. Doors open today at 11 am.
Tu Lan: 8 Sixth Street (at Market), SF; 415-626-0927