More taquerias should be inspired by Taco Bell. No, not by the fast-food chain's suspect ingredients or testosterone-fueled ad campaigns, but for the unique gastronomic constructs that Taco Bell uses to produce their food-like menu items. Take, for example, this (delicious) monstrosity filled with Fritos. Taqueria La Cumbre on Valencia Street recently started making something sorta, kinda, barely similar: Nachos in a Roll (i.e., a tortilla chip-stuffed burrito), a treat brought to our attention by noted neighborhood blog, Mission Mission. See, for only $5, you can get nachos stuffed inside a flour tortilla with either grilled chicken, steak or vegetarian along with beans, cheese guacamole, sour cream, and salsa. So basically a burrito with chips inside. And yet? Much more.
We sampled the texturally-enhanced savory roll to see for ourselves if—at last—the chippy addition made San Francisco's gloppy and oversteamed burrito (unfathomably preferred by many) more palatable. It did. Texture can do wonders. While the chips did get a bit soggy, they provided a necessary buffer to the burrito's inherent one-dimensional flavor and greasiness factors. We ordered ours with grilled chicken, regular salsa, and no beans. (Unless they're of the cannellini variety and tinged with rosemary and olive oil, we don't care for beans.) It came to us wrapped nicely in a perfect size portion. Mmm, good.
Our only complaint is that we wanted more chips in our nacho burrito. No wait, we wanted more nacho-flavored chips in our nacho burrito. Rainbow Grocery or Bi-Rite must have some sort of organic, non-Tom's brand of flavored chips that won't sear the roof of one's mouth, yes? That salty kick could have made the nacho burrito the post-binge drinking meal in the Mission. At least for us, anyway.
You can get this filling and carb-loaded treat until the end of January at Taqueria La Cumbre, 515 Valencia (at 16h Street), S.F. Hours: Mon-Sun 11 am - 2 am.