We later learned that not all persimmons do this: Acorn-shaped Hachiya persimmons are highly astringent for most of their lives, tomato-shaped Fuyus aren't. So why do farmers sell Hachiyas this time of year? Because when they ripen, all the tannins in the flesh bind to other chemicals, and the mouth-shriveling meat gives way to a delicious, jelly-like interior. The fruit will be squishy-soft and fragile and the fruit's color changes from pale orange to angry red. Eat this liquid interior with a spoon, or put it in the freezer for forty-five minutes or so until the interior solidifies into persimmon granita. If you want a fancier treatment, we're tempted by the persimmon pudding in . To tenderize still-firm Hachiyas, wrap them snugly in plastic wrap to deprive the fruit of oxygen and kick start the necessary chemical reactions.

Photos by Melissa Schneider

Chez Panisse Fruit