The simplest treatment features sautéed slices with minced garlicwe suggest the flavorful, hard-necked Rocambole variety you can find at various market stalls. Before turning on the heat, slice the squash into thin rounds, toss with a little salt, and let sit for half an hour or more to extract a portion of the moisture trapped in the flesh. The cooked slices make a nice side for lighter summer fare. We were a little too liberal in our adaptation of the zucchini fritters in . Instead of pancake-like dollops of batter, we tried making deep-fried croquettes. The confetti we scooped out of the hot oil tasted great, but lacked a certain cohesion. Ah, well. It still went just swimmingly with steamed mussels washed down with the Basque wine Txacoli.
Photos by Melissa Schneider
Chez Panisse Vegetables
