When we see parsnips at the store or in most markets, they're big, with a tough inner core. We were thrilled, then, to see smaller, in-season parsnips, split down the middle like a serpent's tongue, at the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market. The slimmed-down root vegetables have not yet formed the woody center that we chop from normal versions. That means higher yield and less work for the home cook.

Given the odd carrot colors on display at the country's most upscale market, you'd be forgiven for thinking that parsnips are nothing more than beige carrots. They are cousins, but parsnips have a nutty, apple-like taste distinct from their more famous kin. At this time of year, they also have a delicate sweetness, thanks to the root's cold-activated system for converting starch to sugar.

Photo by Melissa Schneider

Indeed, parsnips used to be a common sugar source, but other forms of that sweetener became more available and replaced the parsnip. Potatoes contributed to the decline of parsnips, as these New World invaders yielded more food for hungry peasants without forcing them to attack the psoralen-rich parsnip greens that can burn the skin.

Ever since, parsnips have lived at the fringe of root vegetables. More for us, we say. Thoughtful chefs enjoy the flavor that parsnips add to a meal. We like to dice peeled parsnip and then brown the cubes in duck fat, much as we do with potatoes. Parsnips often show up in our medleys of roasted root vegetables—chop root vegetables into largeish chunks, toss liberally with oil and salt, and then roast at 425° until tender, about 20 minutes. We've also used them for purées and soups, simmering diced parsnips in salted water before liquefying them in a blender or food processor.

No matter how you cook them, parsnips pair well with sweeter spices: nutmeg, maple, and orange all appear alongside the root in our favorite cookbooks. The vegetable's sugar supply should steer you towards a wine with residual sugar, such as the German Kabinett Rieslings in local wine shops, if parsnips are the star ingredient on the plate.

How do you like your parsnips? Let us know in the comments.