We went to Myth burdened with expectations as high as the Transamerica pyramid two blocks away: the place was so popular we had to let the restaurant decide when we would eat there, all our suggestions being shot down by Open Table like a buddy of Dick Cheney. Nina Zagat whispered in our ear that this was one of the exciting places in her new guide. Michael You're Eating in My City Bauer wrote a review which was glowing in the dark, and named Myth on his 10 best new restaurants of 2005 list. And it was easy to find the restaurant itself: it was the one with the Ferrari parked in front. There are many ways to blow your money when you have too much, and this one is as show-off-ish as any, but this seemed a better omen of sophistication than, say, a tricked-up Escalade. The interior design is stunning: a wide square room with an open kitchen is lined up with bench against the opposite wall, and sleek booth on one side. Behind the booth sits a long and busy bar where you can eat on a stool. Then, behind a wall of exposed bricks making elegant arches, another long dining room with a high ceiling and the atmosphere of a hip cloister. A private room opposite the kitchen is separated with a large glass partition, so you can follow, while you are seating in the main room, the powerpoint slides the corporate suits are examining. Biotech is trending up on those charts. This is a dining room where you feel comfortable displaying your wealth conspicuously....

We did not really expect to meet with Dr Evil, but we really wished Nina Zagat would do some air quotes here and there. The quote is the hallmark of the guide. Could she do them when she talks about the "laser" or the "tractor beam"? No such luck. Come on, not even once! Boy, were we disappointed. The Zagat 2006 is out, and it's the 20th anniversary of the SF edition. So we got to hang out with Nina in her suite at the Four Seasons. She did not wear a burgundy jacket either, but she was like her guide: passionate about food, yet very organized. She was still raving about her lunch at the Slanted Door, and especially the excellent jasmine tea she had. ...