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It's sure to cause controversy, which Eater SF editor Paolo Lucchesi openly acknowledges, but Eater has just inaugurated The Eater 38, a non-ranked list of the best, most beloved restaurants in the city which they would gladly recommend, with some emphasis given to neighborhood favorites over big destination spots.
Given that preference, it perhaps shouldn't be surprising that established heavyweights like Zagat topper Gary Danko, Michael Mina and Fleur de Lys have been left off the list in favor of several established SF destinations like The Cliff House, La Taqueria and Washington Square Bar & Grill, as well as some newer favorites like Beretta (which we would argue has better cocktails than food), and Spruce. Also absent from the list, we would note, is Eater reader poll favorite La Folie. In any event, Paolo welcomes nominations for this ever-evolving list via email, and will include newer restaurants (over six months old) in the future, as they prove themselves.
The significance of the number 38? It was apparently a random choice, but we think it had something to do with the numbers looking nice graphically beside the capital E (see Eater 38 logo above).
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Spruce? Maybe I went there on an off day, but I found it exceedingly boring.
The real Eater news is their redesign, which looks like 2006 came back from the grave and barfed all over their site.
At least they stayed away from reflective shadows, I will give them that.
The problem is that they have so many poor choices.
Foreign Cinema, really? They have a gimmick that's limited to about half of their seating area (the last time I went the patio had been entirely rented out for a private party) and the food is adequately prepared, but nothing special or unique.
If Magnolia personifies the Haight it's because it's a thoroughly gentrified yuppie hangout that still tries to ape the past nature of the Haight through its name.
Zazie is a nice brunch spot, but it's nothing particularly special. I live in the Haight (Cole Valley is a fake neighborhood for yuppies who want to claim they live in "the nice, especially gentrified part of the Haight" without sounding like condescending dicks and you know it) and it's rarely even my top choice. Yeah, I've waited in the long lines and will do so again because they do make some pretty good food, but it's nothing amazing or essential. If they wanted to reward a brunch place that's consistently worth waiting that long for they'd be talking about Brenda's French Soul Food (why can't they just call it Creole? That's what French Soul Food is and what they serve).
La Taqueria is too controversial to include. They make the only riceless burritos I can think of around here and while they have their adherents they're also seriously maligned by a lot of people.
Also, Ocean Taqueria? Seriously? They're notably inferior to Taqueria Jalapeno down the block. It feels like someone who never actually lived in the area wrote them in as a vague nod to the outer reaches of town. If you really want to do that you extend the list a bit and include Tani's Kitchen down in Daly City. They're a real neighborhood gem.
Same goes for a good banh mi place (not just constantly reiterating Saigon Sandwich like everyone else) and perrenial underrepresented gem Tu Lan.
I also fail to see a good Chinese restaurant, bakery, or dim sum place on here. Guess it only counts if it's an expensive fusion place. You'd think there would at least be a mention of overrated guidebook favorite House of Nanking.
Essential? Hardly. Trendy? Now you've got it!