SFist Eats: "Small Bottles / Small Bites" at the Ritz Bar

That's right. SFist classed up its act last Friday when we jumped into a cab, threw our hair back, and deadpanned to the driver, "Take us to the Ritz." Yes, we went to the famed and supposedly inaccessible Mobil Five-Star awarded The Ritz-Carlton Bar and Dining Room, and thank God we did. It was remarkable -- surprisingly so.

See, in an effort to make their critically-acclaimed fare more affordable to the average eater, the Ritz-Carlton, like many Bay Area restaurants as of late, came up with a deal that's (more or less) easy on the purse strings. It's called "Small Bottles/Small Bites," and it gets you just that: a tiny bottle of wine (from a wine and champagne half-bottle list boasting 111 choices, concocted by charming sommelier Stephane Lacroix) and a selection of small tastes created by mega-name chef Ron Siegel. (For those of you who don't know, Siegel is best known, outside of gastronomic circles, as the first ever U.S. citizen to win in Kitchen Stadium on Iron Chef.)

Siegel, like many SF chefs, uses local farm, organic produce as much as possible for all of his menus. Each "small bites" are $10 and under, except the cheese platter ($18). What does $10 or less get you? Well, we started off with the 64 Degrees Quail Egg (resting on a radical glass container of ceder smoke that assists the just-cooked egg, which, by nature, is a mere wisp of taste), moved on to skull-shatteringly fresh Tuna Tartare (a healthy portion considering the low cost), dared to try some controversial Foie Gras (decadent but still rustic), and Lobster Risotto (expertly cooked lobster morsels mixed with toothy risotto grains).

For dessert, a course we can give or take (usually the latter), we sampled the Chocolate Manjari Cake ($8), sitting on a bed of caramel foam. Typically, we don't care much for chocolate (especially grown-up, high-percentage cocoas), but this twee tea cake was light on both the sweet and intensity. As far as the chocolate cake ouvre goes, it was, in a word, perfect. (No, really, it was.)

But here's the rub: there isn't one. We were expecting some sort of too-chic or too-luxurious catch that might have rendered our time at the Ritz-Carlton jittery, made the meal too stuffy, or sent us running for a Mission Street food truck. But after careful review, we couldn't find anything displeasing. By name, it's a fancy place, yes; but also comfortable and cozy. What's more, the Ritz Bar, formerly the Cigar Bar, is located next to the Dining Room, so it's great for people watching -- seeing who comes in and out, dressed to their versions of the nines.

But best of all, it's located a block down from the Fairmont, which houses the increasingly expensive and grating Tonga Room. Sure, the Tonga Room is an institution. But for almost the same price, if you're on a date or business dinner, you will get better service, better food, astoundingly better drinks (be sure to get a cocktail from the bar), and make a better overall impression. If you can hike up to the Tonga Room, SF locals, you can walk a block down for a far superior treat.

The Ritz-Carlton Bar and Dining Room
600 Stockton, SF
Open Tuesday-Thursday, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.
Restaurant reservations at 415-773-6198 (or just drop in at the bar sans reservation!)

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Comments (1) [rss]

nice work Brock, I have to admit I'd be a little intimidated myself.

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