SFist Eats: Gitane

Entrees include a Tajine (pan seared chicken breast, spiced broth, turnips, zucchini and couscous, $14) a Cataplana, a traditional Portuguese fish stew (monkfish, manilla clams, mild chorizo, Yukon gold potatoes, lobster bisque, $24). Now, we’re not supposed to give too much insight into our entrees as the soft opening is there to garner feedback so the appropriate changes can be made in time for opening day. That said, the baby back pork ribs with demi glace and honey-soy sauce were fan-freakin-tastic, as was the Cordero, a ridiculously tender lamb foreshank, braised in rioja red wine, orange zest, and coriander. Total showstopper. Even the yummy baked polenta (shaped like French Toast sticks) had us tickled pink.

Designed by Charles Doell, the same genius that designed the now-defunct (yet still treasured in our hearts) Backflip, Red Room, and sorely underrated Sno Drift, Gitane’s interior is very reflective of Doell’s talents. Since he also designed the Blupointe Oyster Bar Lounge, the restaurant space’s former occupant, he clearly knew what challenges he was up against and overcame them.

Gitane’s dining area is restricted to a second-floor loft space. Meaning, it’s tiny. Creative configuring allows the space to seat 40 people max. So of course you’d expect the place to get mighty noisy, hot, and downright aggravating once filled to capacity. Hardly. Our table of four had the most pleasant conversation for the three hours or so we were there delighting in the ambiance.

The bar on the other hand, located on the first floor, seats approximately 20 people, but with a sky-high ceiling above it, feels as spacious as the Neiman Marcus Rotunda.

Venegas has apparently developed a bar program that’s focused on sherry, which we think is kind of interesting. Our Negroni Tinto (Miller’s gin, Marie Brizzard crème de cacao, Campari, ruby port) was lovely and overall, the cocktail menu has some unusual offerings such as Gitane Cobbler (Dry Sack amontillado sherry, Marie Brizzard triple sec, lemon juice, simple syrup, $9)and the Solera (Santa Teresea 1796 rum, Lustau Clement Creole Shrub orange rum, fresh Olosoro sherry and Velvet Falemum). And the “unusual” comment isn’t a dig by any means, it’s definitely a high-five. Lots of mixologists like to tout an only-in-San-Francisco cocktail menu, but in actuality, they’re typically only substituting, say, a different spirit, while the rest of the ingredients in the classic cocktail will stay the same. Venegas has really exercised his brain and palate on this one.

Another plus: Gitane will also offer quaint outdoor/patio seating in the alleyway.

Hours & Location: 6 Claude Lane (@ Bush) in San Francisco. Dinner will be served Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30pm to midnight; the bar will stay open until 1:00am. Reservations can be made by calling 415.788.6686 or by visiting http://www.gitanerestaurant.com/.