Blocker: 1800 Haight

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Exploring San Francisco through the lens of city blocks, Blocker is a weekly series by Charles Hodgkins. Look for it on SFist each Wednesday, around the lunching hour.

View the map of all published Blocker episodes.

Blocker, No. 19: Haight St. in the Upper Haight

A man in a black leather jacket carefully backs his Yamaha into one of the six motorcycle spaces on Haight at the corner of Shrader. He's here to see Pinback's in-store performance at Amoeba Music across the street later in the evening, but he's also pulled his bike into a world where the warm early evening air is alternately punctured by the scent of patchouli, McChickens, pee, and smoke from silly cigarettes. Plenty of off-street fee parking and reminders of the 1960s glory days are also available.

Certain parts of Haight between Shrader and Stanyan have seen better commercial days – specifically, the shuttered and boarded Cala supermarket at its west end, and on a much lesser scale, the former home of taco/burrito retailer Chabela's at 1805 (dormant since the mid-'00s) – and there's no escaping the persistently suffocating sense of flower power and "revolution" around here anytime soon. (Kind bud?) The vibe on the block's sidewalks can be construed as seamy or circus-like (or perhaps both), depending upon one's tolerance for American Youth in Very Big Pants, or for politely deranged men pushing shopping carts and singing "COME TO AFRICA!!" at the top of their high-pitched lungs. But regardless of one's frame of reference, there's always a lot to take in down here in Amoeba Gulch.

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On this autumn evening, Haight's lowbrow big top features a woman parading up its south sidewalk decked out in a glittering, back-length silver headdress, while an enterprising young man in front of hardscrabble bar John Murio's Trophy Room offers passers-by a pair of what he calls "expensive," "hip-hop" Sean John jeans for "only $36." On a quieter note, a man of artistic purpose kneels on unforgiving concrete in his thin leather pants, working on a triptych in ink as vinyl copies of New Morning and Magical Mystery Tour sit idly nearby. (Incense?) Down at the west end, a small group of young urban campers, apparently on leave from the Alvord Lake netherworld across Stanyan and down the knoll, hovers shiftless outside McDonald's.

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Poles along Haight's sidewalks are plastered with just as many fliers as the last time you were here. Amoeba's window displays, meanwhile, remain as cleverly crafty as ever – hey look, it's a Harpo Marx record! – and despite the decline of the world's love for physical music-product, the independent music retailer at the old Rock 'N' Bowl appears to be doing as much of a land-office business as ever, judging by the volume and mass of red-and-yellow shopping bags emerging from the store.

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A trio of businesses catering to the hip San Franciscan – Reverb Records, Skates on Haight, and Milk Bar – sits across from Amoeba and just down the block from outpatient dialysis service center Renal Advantage Inc. (RAI), which itself has nothing to do with house music, skating, or white Russians. An elderly man leaves the center and, without any hand gesture, feebly attempts to hail a passing cab in a voice inaudible more than six feet away. (Doses?) We flag the next available one for him as we attempt to decipher the figure next to Hendrix and Morrison in the Deceased Rock Icon™ mural on RAI's east exterior wall. A thinner Jerry? An overly haggard Lennon? A de-Rasta'd Marley? One thing's clear: It ain't Janis.

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Back in contemporary times across the road, Cha Cha Cha's clientele is, aside from Amoeba's across-the-board pull, the most varied on the block. After all, there's usually at least one clean-cut shirt-tucker, or perhaps a gaggle of primped young women, waiting on the sidewalk at peak dining times for a table inside. These are also usually the people who blindly park in the McDonalds lot, then return a couple hours later to find their cars have been towed off. Just because there’s a big, fun record store and a pretty park across Stanyan doesn’t mean it’s necessarily a forgiving block.

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Comments (20) [rss]

Christ, I can't believe that former Cala is still an empty lot. How I long for a Trader Joe's.

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Mattymatt - I believe TJ's declined interest in the site because they weren't interested in purchasing the parcel with the stipulation of building a mixed-use facility as had been recommended by neighborhood groups and the planning commission. I could be wrong about this site, but TJ's has a history of claiming interest in a parcel only to back out because they don't want to be responsible neighbors. Too bad cuz I agree, we need something at that site.

Different issue, why the hell does McDonald's have such a bloody huge parking lot? How did that ever come to be? Its never full and who the hell eats that shit anymore?

TJ's can get lost. Like Haight needs a continual line of traffic waiting to park there.

McDonalds provides a invaluable service: Cheap, predictable food for tourist and homeless people alike.

Have you been inside that McDonald's on a Saturday afternoon? It's a mob scene. A fetid mob scene. But great point: the size of that lot is absurd.

My prediction for the former Cala in the year 2010: Still vacant. Maybe squatted.

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Ciaran - fair enough, I'm not advocating that we need a TJ's or other-type grocery there, but allowing that lot to remain empty is not acceptable.

I bet TJ's would have made a better neighbor than an empty lot does.

Yeah, I agree - I'm assuming that someone is going to take over that lot. Even with the mixed use/affordable housing requirements that's got to be a valuable piece of real estate, no?

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I thought whole foods was going to buy it and build a garage/store/apartments monster there... at least that's what the local haight street paper was writing about a few months ago.

The former Cala Parking lot is now a pay lot. I suppose it's handy for the out-o-towners who don't know about the lot at Kezar or who don't know how to parallel park.

I don't think TJ's owns any of their own property. They rent. Some enterprising developer needs to get in their and come up with a plan that also includes space for a grocery store. It can't be that hard. It's done all the time. Even in San Francisco.

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And the whole foods website at least confirms it's in the works:

"San Francisco (Haight)
Whole Foods Market
39,550 sq. ft.
Opening date to be announced."

The land is owned by the same developer who has infilled the north side of Haight from Cole heading west with the "Goodwill Building" and those cartoon apartments.

Based on the very long approval and construction times for those projects, I have heard of two year BEFORE construction can begin.

Whole Foods seems to be the only grocer they have negotiated with that can think in those time scales.

I still want to know who that third guy in the mural is.

charles, you're making me miss this area to an extend i didn't think possible.

also, i was in two earthquakes while drinking at the trophy room. love that place, earthquake activity and all.

If memory serves, the McDonald's there was intended to be a drive-thru; they had built the lanes and all, when the neighborhood finally won the inevitable pitched battle to prevent its completion. Thus denied, McD's tore out what they'd built, replaced it with a generic little store with a huge parking lot, and never improved it again.

Man, while it would be great to have a grocery store there Whole Foods really isn't the best choice for it. We really don't need to further gentrify the Haight with yet another overpriced, yuppie-focused, pseudo-hippie store.

TJs would be great, but yeah, it would all too easily become a complete and utter nightmare. I can't believe the traffic at their store in Daly City.

Hanging around and living near this block in its recent rock heyday, circa 1988, and seeing the way it is now is just proof that this town is dying. For me, walking this block and remembering the way it used to be is almost guaranteed to put me into a depression. I even miss Rockin Robbins! THAT"S HOW BAD IT IS!

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