Blocker: 400 Cortland

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Exploring San Francisco through the lens of city blocks, Blocker is a weekly series by Charles Hodgkins. Look for it on SFist each Wednesday, around the lunching hour.

View the map of all published Blocker episodes.

Blocker, No. 18: Cortland Ave. in Bernal Heights

Aspiring painters of urban village scenes would do well to get themselves to Bernal Heights at once. From the armada of sandwich boards and the pony-tailed guy enjoying a pensive cup of coffee at Progressive Grounds, to the verdant street trees and the pair of rowdy sidewalk philosophers holding court near the eastern end of the block, it’s quite the bustling display along Cortland Ave. Private lives seem a low priority here, as even the back yards of local bars, cafés, and restaurants are open for business.

Sidewalk rest stops are a big calling card on Cortland between Andover and Bennington, the heart of Bernal Heights’ vibrant commercial district. There are benches in front of restaurants (Valentina Ristorante), benches in front of salons (Bernal Heights Nail Care), benches in front of markets (The Good Life Grocery), benches in front of saloons (Wild Side West). The result: A remarkable feeling of community, evinced by how it appears as if everyone might actually know everyone else’s name. It’s like a West Coast version of Andy Griffith’s Mayberry...only on Cortland, there’s no Barney Fife. Auditions may or may not be held regularly at Skip’s Tavern and Wild Side West for the role of Otis the Harmless Town Drunk.

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There’s more local color along this stretch of Cortland on a Thursday afternoon than we could ever shoehorn into a 600-word piece. But some moments are too rich to overlook, such as the giant of a man, heavily tattooed and bling’d, sporting a vintage Michael Jordan jersey, and proudly putting the “man” back in “manicure” at Bernal Heights Nail Care. In fact, he may be the most content-looking person on the block, getting pampered in that easy chair like that.

As with all the strategic bench placement, few shopping districts use the sandwich board to such advantage as Cortland. Bernal Yoga trumpets its “Restorative Workshop with Kate”; the folks at Heartfelt, a floral-and-more shop, would like it known they’ve got sun parasols on offer; and down at longtime watering hole Wild Side West, which looks directly plucked from 1890s Carson City had that town been originally populated with lesbians rather than mustachioed silver prospectors, the sidewalk ad simply blares, “Wild Side West is KUMBAYA!”

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Meanwhile, the pair of wise guys on the bench outside Good Life Grocery don’t miss much. When a truck’s stereo rolls by playing “Sexual Healing,” they loudly join Marvin Gaye on the chorus...perhaps a little too loudly, but hey, it’s almost 5PM around here. Whenever acquaintances walk by on the sidewalk, emphatic conversation is engaged. One of them even gives us a special “hello” when we photograph the corner near where they’re seated. (See photo.)

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Gentility returns to the fore back up near Red Hill Books, where a local fellow looks awfully excited to be simply carrying a basket of dirty laundry up to Bernal Bubbles on the next block. The pony-tailed man continues to nurse his beverage on the bench outside Progressive Grounds, pretending to read a book but really just sitting there drinking coffee. There’s a small group enjoying the café’s back patio, and we hear Wild Side West and Liberty Café boast inviting rear gardens as well.

Much of Cortland’s allure lies in how it clearly knows the value of relaxing and sitting a spell. If the Lower Haight has San Francisco’s highest concentration of turntables, and the Outer Richmond has the most space heaters in use during the summer months, perhaps Bernal Heights features the highest number of sidewalk benches per block? At any rate, it’s San Francisco’s finest example of the anti-gated community, and here’s to that.

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Comments (5) [rss]

this is a lovely spot especially for dog owners! just a few blocks away, bernal heights park is usually teaming with dogs and also offers a great view of downtown and the mission.

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No mention of pot pies at Liberty Cafe? I would almost call this a wasted trip up the hill.

90% of why I like Bernal Heights so much is Maggie Mudd, but the possibility of me becoming obese from living near it is discouraging me from moving there.

shhhh.. please don't mention wild side west's patio. no one else needs to know about that.

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