Gastronomique: Nicky Love's
We've managed to avoid the north side of town, so far, as we find it over-sampled by other food critics. Yet we wound up a couple times at Nicky's Pizzeria Rustica, on Polk off Broadway. We hadn’t been back on that street corner since the good ol’ days of Johnny Love's, a sleazy meat market where we’re ashamed to admit we managed to entertain ourselves there a few times. It's long ago enough that we can safely admit it. We never meant to go to Johnny Love's, it was the hormones talking. The place has been Rouge since 2000, and for some reason, it looks like the brassy, bridge-and-tunnel vibe has survived.
The difference between Rouge and its predecessor was the addition of Nick's Crispy Taco, which quickly became a neighborhood phenomenon, with lines still out of the doors on most nights. We haven’t sampled the tacos, so we’re not in the converted category yet. The tacos’ namesake, Nick Fasanella, left the partnership after some not-too-pleasing moment (we heard about litigation) and moved next door, to open his pizzeria rustica.
Rustica means a square shape and an almost focaccia-like crust. Not as thick, but still plenty bready, the dough is cooked twice, once empty, once loaded with the toppings, in an olive-oiled pan which gives it a slight crispiness underneath. It is specked with crushed herbs (we recognized sage) to make it interesting on its own. Then it is covered with the tomato, cheese, and various items. Nicky's is strictly by the slice, with a selection of ready-made pies waiting for you. We are not sure you can design your customized slice. It did not cross our mind to ask, since we found something to please us in the selection on display. Oh, and the selection rotates between visits, depending on what is fresh.
So we tried the basic slices: a basil, Italian sausage, roasted red pepper, tomato and mozzarella pie, with a fennel-y flavor in the sausage, and first-rate ingredients overall, and the right amount of stuff on top. Another classic, the Margharita (olive, tomato, basil). And a Hawaiian take-off, with Canadian bacon, pineapple and blue cheese. The blue cheese is a genius addition to what is otherwise the blandest, kiddiest, boringest of pizza, giving a pungent punch to the slice, and a savory counterweight to the sweet fresh pineapple.
And then we sampled the designer pizza, the one where chef Nicky got a bit more creative in the pairings and combinations: pancetta, grilled onion for a slice, spinach, roasted garlic, blue cheese for another, and three funghi (we believe shiitake, porcini and a hint of truffle oil, but don’t quote us on that) pizza for the last. The ingredients were stellar; the combinations worked; Nicky, who was working the counter himself, was charming; we were happy.
The place is bare and tiny, and we took the pizza slices to go. Splitting 3 slices for 2 people makes a big hearty meal which won’t set up back more than $15, including tip. That's $7.50 a pop for a meal that won’t leave you hungry; it’s almost burrito territory. A single slice runs about $4.
Nicky's Pizza Rustica
2109 Polk St @ Broadway
771-4222