Top Chef: The Last Suppers

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So last night the best reality show on television came to an end for this season. It was down to the final two -- perhaps there was a little controversy, perhaps one of the other contestants should have been there in some viewers' minds -- but on this program, the final two gave it their all in a stunning performance to see who would go home with the prize.

American Idol? Not hardly. Top Chef, my friends. Harold versus Tiffani. Even keel versus firebrand.

And in this finale, there were no gimmicks -- it was just, as was said on the show, two chefs going knife to knife, trying to cook a five-course dinner that would impress regular judges Chef Tom Colicchio, Gail Simmons, hostess Katie Lee Joel, primary guest judge Dr. Melfi (whose "Bracco"-label wines had to be paired with every course), Top Chef semi-regular Hubert Keller (of San Francisco's Fleur de lis), Drew Nieporent (apparently some restaurant magnate), Chef Michael Mina, and Dana Cowin, the editor-in-chief of Food & Wine Magazine (gee, you think Gail resented having to eat with the boss?). So, each contestant had to prepare five courses for nine people (eight judges plus Katie Lee Joel's puppeteer).

If this sounds a little "by the numbers" to you, we should mention that the delightfully bitchy undercurrent that the whole series has had was present -- the four runners up (Miguel, STEPHEN!!!!!, Lee Anne, and just-eliminated Dave) had to be divided up to work as sous chefs for the finalists. But how to divide them? Chef Tom asks for preferences. Lee Anne wants to work for Harold. Stephen claims he wants to work for Tiff, but we think he's lying. Miguel wants to work for Harold. Dave wants to work for Harold.

Why did Stephen lie? Well, let's face facts: he's a bit of an attention hog, so he probably figured he'll have more input with Tiff than Harold. He's a bit of a contrarian, and he knew that he'd stand out by being the only one to volunteer for Tiff's team. Finally, to his credit, our boy Stephen loves a good challenge and loves to complicate/overcomplicate.

So, Harold is allowed to take two of the three that have asked to be on his team. He picks Lee Anne straight up and has Dave (who called Tiff a "bitch") and Miggy (who referred to her as a "snake" and then make hissing noises) pick knives to see who will round out his team. Whoever got knife #1 was on H's team. It was Miguel.

Tiffani, through gritted teeth, gave a half-assed "happy to have you." Shoot, at least she was trying.

Here's a great example of why we love Stephen. Tiffani tells her new crew that she's going for an ambitious menu -- rather than simply five courses, she's doing two different dishes each course, for a total of 10. Stephen, noting that the idea is indeed ambitious, calls it "Stephen-esque." Dave has pre-prepped some dessert ideas he was going to use should he make the finals; he volunteers to give these ideas up for Tiffani's sake.

Okay, so Stephen's on board and motivated, AND it's a wine-pairing challenge to boot (Steph's a sommelier as well). And junkfood/flavah-mastah Dave has been given carte blanche to make the dessert course. Looks like Tiff just may have a winning formula.

Harold's kitchen, in the meantime, is a little quieter. He's embarrassed that Lee Anne and Mig keep calling him "Chef." He props up Miggie's "beef two ways" from the beginning of the season and says he intends to base one of his offerings on that dish.

Harold's up first. He decides to hand-write a menu rather than face the group in person--he has the wait staff serve as spies to get reactions throughout. To his credit, the menu lists Lee Anne and Miguel's names on it as well as his. He's a team player; the kind of guy with quiet leadership and decency that inspires loyalty.

First course: scallop w/blood orange and fennel, served with pino grigio. Generally positive feedback, but judges think it may have sat for too long. Keller props H's eye for presentation.

Second course: Olive-oil poached bass (served with brunello). H's worst offering by far. Show hostess Katie Lee Joel end up with a hunk of bloodline or something. Folks feel it's overcooked.

Third course: Pan-roasted quail w/spaetzel, fois gras and cherries. Some feel it's a bit overcooked; also called a "classic" combination of flavors; generally well received.

Cut to the kitchen: Harold is drinking, for the second time, from what looks to be an airplane-service-sized bottle of Bombay Sapphire gin. Stress is turning him into a tiny, little alcoholic.

Fourth course: The beef duo -- Kobe beef and braised short ribs. Very well received. Chef Tom says that this dish "respected the product."

Dessert course: A selection of cheeses served with a fig tart. Wine: amarone. They like it; Chef Keller likes the presentation on a plate that has little compartments for each cheese.

Tiffani's deal is different from the get-go. In her kitchen, she's trying to rule with an iron fist, versus H's teams quiet, effective camaraderie. Granted, fussy Dave and self-involved Stephen are probably not as suited to the line as Lee Anne and Dave. Still, she's causing a little resentment. She's trying to demand respect rather than earn it. Tiffani goes tableside to talk about each course, whereas Harold simply had a menu. She starts off her presentation with some weird statement about how her life has been all about duality lately. Gee, think she's been reading these articles here on SFist?

We should mention: it shows that Dave and Stephen were up all night drinking. What was not clear by the show, but is available if you follow up on Bravo's great Top Chef Web site is that the finals were taped in the MORNING, despite being a dinner. That means that Dave and Stephen were not only hung over and had no sleep, but were likely still drunk. Tiffani indeed had to start from a deficit.

First course: Diver scallops. Presentation "A": in squid emulsion. They love it. Presentation "B": as a crudo. The judges are rather "meh" about this one.

And therein lies the problem with her strategy -- Gail herself says it at one point; Tiffani's dishes are essentially competing with each other.

Second course: Artichokes. Presentation "A": a "risotto", which is highly, highly appreciated. Presentation "B": fried artichokes w/dipping sauce.

Third course: sea bass. Presentation "A": with ratatouille. Presentation "B": with fennel and pasta. Both were sub-par.

Fourth course: veal. Presentation "A": saltimbocca. Presentation "B": with minted peas ("a classic" she says).

Dessert course: Presentation "A": vanilla panna cotta with amaretto cocktail; Presentation "B": bread pudding. and a another cocktail (that we can't track down! Anyone out there recall?). Simply said, the judges are knocked the heck out by these desserts. Home run. Dave's in the kitchen, crying about it (shocker), since these were mostly his.

Judging: It's a tough call--Tiff's hit higher highs and lower lows. Harold's been consistently good, but less ambitious. Tiff doesn't give Dave enough credit for the dessert -- we think if she had, that'd go a long way towards giving her more points. A "Top Chef" uses his/her resources, and it didn't matter if they were Dave's recipes. Still, she can't give credit. Harold does prop his team up. The judges ask the four souse chefs who should win. All four respond "Harold." Later, during the questioning of the finalists, the judges mention this.

Tiffani and Harold go wait in the kitchen while the judges debate. Tiff makes some weird comment about how she can feel Harold's knife sticking into her back. Whu-ha? I can understand a little if she felt that way about Stephen and Dave, who worked with her on this task. But it's not like their opinions represent a betrayal on Harold's part in any way, shape or form.

The contestants are called back before the judges. They award the title of Top Chef, and the corresponding rewards, to Harold. Congratulations; he'll put the $100K into opening his restaurant in New York. Look forward to Food & Wine's July edition, which will spotlight Harold and the show. Poor Tiffani. She wanted to travel. She mentions her debt. We hope her success on the show leads to something lucrative.

Oh, and here's a major gripe: THIS was way way WAY too gratuitous -- after H is announced as the winner, Katie Lee Joel tells Tiff to "pack her knives and go home." Shoot, not even Trump tells the Apprentice runners up that they are fired once he proclaims someone "hired." We won't blame plasticine Katie Lee, we'll blame the producers, but that was CLASSLESS and showed little respect to Tiffani, who already has to deal with the ignominy of coming in second in an all-or-nothing competition.

So, there you have it -- possibly the greatest season of reality TV competition ever. Fun folks, an obsession with bowel movements, a great love-to-make-fun-of-him-but-he's-actually-pretty-cool villain, a little eye candy, some gross stuff, a little erotica, a lot of food porn, and a good choice for champion.

Cripes -- what are we supposed to do until next season?

Hells Kitchen, anyone?

Comments (3) [rss]

I'm so glad Harold won! And I totally agree about Katie Lee Joel - she comes across as a complete robotic, soulless puppet - definitely the worst part of the show.

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I love you, Grillbitch, even if no one else does. I really don't think that (1) Tiffani is as bitchy as she is made out to be (just lacking in social skills) and (2) Harold is as nice as he is made out to be. I don't know ... I'm vibing bad vibes off Harold. He's a "talk behind your back" person for sure.

I certainly don't think it's a major crime to ask your employee to please not DRINK as they work. I know it's more accepted in bars, restaurants but it's generally not done openly in front of the boss in my experience, and certainly not as youare preparing the food! Much as I'd love to uncork a bottle as I'm drafting estate plans, I wouldn't hold it against my boss if he told me to hold it until 6:00.

Tiff definitely made a huge mistake trying to take some credit for Dave's dessert, but I think it's bullshit that they went there when Harold's BEST dish was someone else's idea and was made by someone else, and it wasn't even mentioned. I'm sure he would have given credit, but it wasn't even brought up. The chefs all knew in both cases who made what, but it was a trap for Tiff and she sadly walked right into it.

*sigh* I know Harold probably deserved it more, but I have no interest in eating in his restaurant. BORING. I'd much rather be treated to one of Tiffani's menus, even if that means it's not as consistent. I love being surprised and eating creative and ambitious--dare I say, Stephen-esque menus.

Finally, I like to think that underneath the pompousness, there lurks a little bit of cool guy in Stephen and that he chose Tiffani because he knew no one else would and he didn't want her to shut out. I don't know, I just like bitchy people, I guess.

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Stephen needs his own show. Period. He must promise to keep telling us how wonderful he is, though -- that's half the fun. Every week, he can do a different task . . .

I really hope next season's in San Francisco again -- but, hey, if not? At least the competitiors should raise the bar a little.

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