SFist in the Kitchen: Lemons
The poor lemon. It's so common that you ignore it even in the midst of its high season. But we tend to agree with Chez Panisse Fruit, which lists this tart fruit as a cooking staple. No one will be surprised to learn that the book's authors dote on the low-acid Meyer lemons, which have become a defining ingredient in California cuisine. But nothing beats the mouthpuckering juice of a Eureka or Lisbon lemon, the two almost identical varieties you'll find at the market.
Even though the SFist kitchen staff is at a writing conference, we're giving you some homework for the next two weeks: Swing by a local farmer's market, pick up some lemons, and give them a chance to shine. Make a clean and fruity vinaigrette with lemon juice instead of vinegar. Thinly slice a Meyer lemon and dredge the slices in flour, buttermilk, and flour again before frying in a pot of 350° vegetable oil. Slip lemon slices onto your fish before putting it in the oven, or under the skin of a roast chicken. Get some oysters, shuck them, and drip lemon juice onto the meaty morsels inside.
Photo by Melissa Schneider
For a slightly more complex preparation, try friend of SFist Tom's straightforward recipe for lemon curd. Imagine putting this eggy, lemony sauce onto warm scones. Mmmm. Makes you want some lemons, doesn't it?
Our favorite lemon preparation requires salt and some patience. Lop off one end of the lemon, and cut the lemon into fourths, but without letting the knife go all the way through. Sort of a lemon flower. Pack kosher salt into the lemon, and pack the fruit in more kosher salt. After you store it for a month in the refrigerator, you'll have conserved lemon, whose rind (not flesh) you can use to add a salty, zingy flare to any number of dishes. Conserved lemons are a typical Moroccan ingredient, but we minced some rind and mixed it into gnocchi dough to create dumplings with a tangy kick. Once you try it, you'll always want to have some on hand.
Market note: Area foodies should keep an eye out for Edible San Francisco and Edible East Bay. The newest issues of these excellent magazines for Bay Area food lovers should be widely available now. Check the sites for distribution info.