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You Put Your Mocha Java In My Chocolate!

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With some fair frequency in this column and elsewhere, we've bemoaned the loss of local business to the big guys, whether by corporate buyout or the sort of overproliferation that can present a challenge to those trying to break in.

We'd like to take an opportunity to spotlight a local chocolatier. While chocolate in and of itself is not usually fodder for the Trimethyldioxypurist, one of Charles Chocolates' offerings--the Mocha Java Bar--fits squarely into our subject realm.

Advantages of a coffee-filled chocolate bar over, say, a hot shot of espresso? Well, the candy is slightly more mobile and probably keeps a bit longer. Not that coffee or espresso drinks could ever be replaced by confectionary versions.

But still, coffee and chocolate -- seriously, what two things could potentially go together better? In our opinion, just about nothing. They both run the gamut from light to dark, from bitter to sweet, and the multitude of combinations therein can add to the enjoyment of both immensely. When they team up, however, the results can range from disastrous to divine.

To date, the most wonderful fusion of coffee and chocolate we've experienced is Vermont-based Lake Champlain's Java Truffle Bar--rich, dark chocolate surrounding a perfectly creamy coffee filling in excellent proportion to one another. Charles Chocolates' Mocha Java Bar is almost a different animal entirely, not being a truffle bar but, rather, having ground coffee pieces in the bar itself. Despite the difference between the two bars, the one from Lake Champlain shows just how complimentary cocoa and coffee can be and provides a decent measuring stick to help determine the quality of the Charles Chocolates bar.

So, how was the Charles Mocha Java bar? Pretty darned good! It's a 65% cocoa bar, which is not usually our preference -- see, that's a percentage that isn't dark enough to be super-dark, but certainly not a milk chocolate. It's mildly dark. We usually prefer a very dark chocolate bar. However, this percentage proves to be an excellent conveyance for the ground coffee; if the chocolate were any darker, the contrast with the coffee might be less pronounced.

The chocolate itself is really quite nice--very solid, with a satisfying crack! when you take a bite of it. Whether this is due to a local kitchen getting a product to market faster, or whether it's just that much better made than most other bars we'll leave to the confectioners and chemists. All we know if that the bar just screams "quality" and "attention to detail."

The only less than stellar aspect of the bar is the mouth feel of the coffee itself. It's just ground coffee--naturally, it's a bit tough and the texture is a little rough. We wouldn't know what to suggest to make it better. This is a problem that the Lake Champlain bar skirts by doing a coffee-flavored ganache filling, perhaps for this very reason.

One advantage the Charles bar has over the Lake Champlain one -- it seems there's more of a kick. Yes, kids, eating ground-up coffee is a pretty good way to get a bit of a caffeine boost. We weren't expecting it, but it did make for a rather late night. Not that we suggest it would or could take the place of a cup a' joe; just another factor to consider.

Overall, we really liked the Charles bar, and like even better that it comes from a company in the seven by seven. We'd wholly recommend those who enjoy a bit of coffee with their chocolate and vice versa give this a shot; if you like what you try, there are several other products (a hazelnut/candied orange peel bar; caramelized rice krispie bars in both bittersweet and milk; and more) available.

Contact the author of this article or email tips@sfist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

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