SFist in the Kitchen: Melons
We thought about making some tasteless joke about holding firm, weighty melons in our hand, but we refrained. We are, however, happy to see melons in abundance at the market. Even though you'll find tired samples at brunch throughout the year, melons are at their best in late summer and early fall. There's a reason that watermelons are quintessential picnic fare.
You'll find a number of varieties at the farmer's market right now, but for a cook's purposes, they divide into two categories: watermelons and everything else. Watermelons have an airy network of cells that gives them a light, mealy consistency, while the "cantaloupe kin" have a dense, aromatic flesh that oozes sweet juice down your chin. The two are only distant cousins: cantaloupe-type melons are more closely related to cucumbers than they are to watermelons.
Photos by Melissa Schneider
As we dug through the melon lore in our various cookbooks, we were shocked—shocked!—to learn that agribusiness has misled us all these years. See that cantaloupe in the grocery store? It's actually a muskmelon. Oooh, that gets us angry. (Note: the farmer who runs the stand in the first picture is clearly confused as well) True cantaloupes are rare, though one variety—the Charentais—finds its way to the Ferry Plaza market. The difference is largely academic. Cantaloupes are smaller and have a smooth skin in place of the muskmelon's familiar netting. Both types can have delicious and colorful flesh, so taste samples before you buy.
Melons rarely benefit from being cooked, which makes them perfect foods for a warm summer day, as rare as that is around here. We like them raw and slightly chilled, or even cold, as in friend of SFist Heidi's melon sherbet. Anyone who's ever picked up an issue of Bon Appétit knows you can wrap prosciutto around muskmelon slices for a tasty appetizer, and anyone who's gone to a frat party knows you can saturate a watermelon with vodka for a hangover-inducing party drink. Both illustrate a key aspect of melons: the simpler the preparation, the better. We made amuse-bouches with watermelon cubes and small pours of traditional balsamic vinegar, and Culinary Artistry's tantalizing mention of Lindsey Shere's Chanterais with Muscat saboyon inspired us to make our own version, topping balls of Ambrosia and Chanterais melons with a mint-ginger-Muscat sabayon. Or you could just forgo the fancy versions and eat slices cut right out of the fruit.
Recipe: Melon Balls with Muscat-Ginger-Mint Sabayon
Serves 2
We were amused by the comment in our sauce reference book: "In classic sauce making, the sauce would then be completed by adding fat...It is possible to eliminate most or all of the fat." We have to wonder what he thinks egg yolks are made of. If you can't find Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise, Bonny Doon's Vin de Glacière is a fine substitute.
- 1 "thumb" of ginger, peeled and chopped into small dice
- 375 ml Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise (see note)
- 1 Charentais or small Ambrosia melon, halved and seeded.
- 8-9 mint leaves, plus extra for garnish
- 2 large egg yolks
- Combine the ginger and Muscat in a saucepan, and reduce over medium heat until there's about a half cup of liquid in the pan.
- Meanwhile, scoop the seeds out of each melon half, and use a melon baller to scoop out small rounds of melon flesh. Arrange the balls in martini glasses. Chiffonade the mint by stacking the leaves, rolling them tightly lengthwise, and then cutting across widthwise.
- When the liquid is reduced, strain out the ginger, and put the liquid into a square baking pan. Place pan in the refrigerator until cool.
- Once the liquid is cool, pour back into a medium saucepan, add the two egg yolks, and whisk. Whisk like you've never whisked before! The mixture will foam up dramatically and shrink back down (if you want a foamier sauce, add one tablespoon sugar to the egg-liquid combination). Once the foam stiffens, and you can begin to see the bottom of the saucepan, remove from heat, add the mint, and continue to whisk for 20 seconds or so. Pour the sauce over the melon balls, garnish with mint, and serve.