SFist in the Kitchen: Cherries
Cherries are out in abundance at farmer's markets, though quality still varies from stall to stall, so we reccommend sampling first. We liked the red-black meaty Bings from Lagier Ranches enough to grab a bag for dinner, but we didn't do a full survey of the gold and pink Rainiers at other stalls.
SFist Eve was thrilled to hear that these stone fruits would be the topic de la semaine, but she and other devotees may have to act quickly this year. Gossip that's floated into our inbox mentions crops ruined by rain, though that doesn't seem to be a statewide calamity. Still, it can't hurt to buy early and buy often, can it? Especially when you learn that red cherries are chock full of healthy antioxidants.
Photos by Melissa Schneider
Our colleagues over at most of the other 'ists can look forward to the sour cherries that Alice Waters prefers for baking and pickling, but here on the West Coast we only get the sweeter varieties. We just reduce the sugar a bit when recipes call for the sours, but we're sure we're missing out in some way.
Our friend Heidi inspired us to make the cherry-almond gratin from Patricia Wells' The Paris Cookbook, which combines the red globes with almonds, a natural complement, in a cobbler-like dessert. On the savory side, cherries work well with duck, and we made a sauce of cherries and pluots stewed in cherry juice to accompany pan-seared duck breasts and goat cheese-almond stuffed zucchini blossoms. A California Pinot Noir not only complemented the cherry taste, but the acidity in the wine cut through the fatty duck meat. For those less unabashedly in love with waterfowl, cherries also work well with pork. SFist Eve, not a meat fan, might prefer the cherry and goat cheese beignets we made a while back upon seeing an old Art Culinaire.
No matter how you want to eat them, be sure and pick some up at your local farmer's market. Then come back here and tell us what you did with them. We'd love to hear.