Wide Awake in North Beach: Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store
Spectacular weather this weekend, right? Makes it all the more imperative to get one's ass in gear on a Sunday morning--we've got to enjoy the sun while it lasts. Your Trimethyldioxypurist was able to shake the Sunday morning cobwebs in a most delightful way . . .
Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store is a small, intimate cafe in North Beach, right on the corner of Columbus and Union. Both bar seating and small, round tables are available; plenty of large windows enabled the essence of the gorgeous day to seep in. As seems to be a pattern with cafes in North Beach, bric-a-brac with significance peppers the place: items from Italy, a mural of San Francisco above the bar, and pictures of the founder and other important persons to the history of the shop.
That displayed history lends itself well to the feeling of homeyness and belonging that just exudes from this place. Mario's is like a well-worn shoe, as comfortable as one of your own. The Motown sound (that was maybe a touch too loud) also lent itself perfectly to the lovely Sunday afternoon. The smell of fresh panini cooking on the grill just makes it that much more enticing.
Mario's has actual "table service," which isn't the usual for cafes like this. We found the wait staff to be attentive and friendly, yet casual -- again, comfortable. No need to stand on ceremony.
Mrs. Trimethyldioxypurist enjoyed her usual -- a latte (about 2 bucks). It was smooth, rich, and the milk was well-steamed instead of being just warmed. "Nice and milky without being overly creamy." Spurring our very own state of overcaffeinization were a cappuccino ($2.50) and a regular cup o' joe. The cappuccino in particular was excellent; the milk "cap" was tight and foamy, almost meringue-like in consistency; the flavor was rich with a neutral finish (this is a good; all too often, cappuccinos seem to finish bitter/sour). The regular coffee ($1.25) was good too--obviously from a quality bean, which turned out to be local roaster Graffeo, also located in North Beach, but a few blocks away.
We actually got food for once--shared a panini. It was beautiful in its simplicity. Perfectly grilled bread, a slice of tomato, fresh mozzarella and a layer of basil and olive oil. Simple. Unassuming. Bliss.
There are also a number of other items available: a full menu and some intriguingly beguiling biscotti, which we will surely sample next time.
And there will be a "next time." Both food and coffee at Mario's seem to adhere to the KISS principal ("keep it simple, stupid"; not Gene Simmons and Co.). All the things that really matter to your casual cafe experience--good, fresh, hot coffee; comfortable atmosphere; simple, unassuming food choices--are at Mario's in spades.
Mario's info:
566 Columbus at Union St.
(415) 362-0536
Hours:
Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m. to midnight
Sunday: 10 a.m.-11 p.m.
In coming weeks: results of the "can work coffee be any good" research; a heart-attack in a cup from an unassuming little dive in SOMA; and a look at some (choke!) flavored coffee. Stay tuned!